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Routes in Lower West Bolton

A Major T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Minor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A-Sharp T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dead Babies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dogzilla T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gates of Eden T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hailstorm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hush, Mama Thrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In the Pines T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say Goodnight Dick T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
Snake Skin Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Steel Feathers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sticks and Stones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tea in the Sahara T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavey Good-Bye T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's up, doc? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,328 total, 11/month
Shared By: roddack on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the easy off width to ledge (often wet), step left for a single pitch of more off width or belay. Step further left to a giant flake. Climb the right side to a left facing dihedral with ok gear (5.7),or at base of dihedral break left for a bolt (5.7)and the top.

Location

Far left side of Harvest moon wall.

Protection

Normal

Photos

- No Photos -
Sam Fox
Burlington, VT
 
Sam Fox   Burlington, VT
 
I've done the direct "second pitch" quite a few times. This climb links easily with a single rope and makes for a fun and easy warmup. A red tricam carefully arranged in a hole and a pink tricam in a pinscar behind a flake protect the line alright..

Lieback up the big right facing flake to the right of the anchor. Move straight up above it until the climbing starts to become harder. Step down a hair and out left beneath the right facing corner. The corner laybacking/jamming/mantling (5.6) is the crux.

Maybe R, pretty easy though, and fun. Dec 14, 2015
There are two "left variations". They both start on the large flake and I wouldn't call either run out. Climb either the right or left side of the flake (#3 camalot) then either break left for the two bolts and end at a two bolt anchor, or (better) climb straight up the slab and angle left into the dihedral. Gear is kind of fiddly but is all there. You can also climb a slab pitch to the left of the wet corner that ends on the ledge at the flake, this makes a better first pitch IMO. May 24, 2012
Mark Daubenschmidt
South Burlington
  5.6
Mark Daubenschmidt   South Burlington
  5.6
Left variation is fairly run out, unless you have a #4 or 5 C4 :). Tried a direct finish but couldn't find any pro, traversed back to the left for the bolts and finish. Has anyone done this direct?? Aug 21, 2011
DWABS
  5.6 PG13
DWABS  
  5.6 PG13
I believe the first part of this climb is called "Wet Corner". You can lead this first short pitch to a tree belay or two bolts on the big ledge and then continue up in the two ways described, or you can climb it as one pitch, or just end it there.

I found the right variation, going up the crack with the tree growing out of it to a low angled corner much better protected than the left. Though the only real climbing on the right variation is found within the first 15 or so feet, then it's a mellow scramble with one last easy move to the bolts. The left variation has two bolts for intermediate pro up to and on a bulge.

Left variation is run out to two bolts, right variation ends at two bolts w/rap rings. Dec 30, 2010