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Routes in Lower West Bolton

A Major T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Minor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A-Sharp T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dead Babies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dogzilla T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gates of Eden T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hailstorm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hush, Mama Thrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In the Pines T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say Goodnight Dick T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
Snake Skin Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Steel Feathers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sticks and Stones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tea in the Sahara T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavey Good-Bye T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's up, doc? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Alden Pellet
Page Views: 915 total, 12/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 4, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Steel Feathers climbs the steep wall equipped with several well-spaced bolts (3rd hanger is missing) directly to the left of "Hush Mama Thrush".

A bouldery start gains a nice series of flakes, a high-step off a frighteningly hollow flake leads to several hard and balancy moves above the hanger-less bolt. Gain a "thank god" flake/ledge, mantel, then either continue straight up (minimal gear, and 2 more bolts), or move right to join with the upper section of "Hush". Though following the last couple of bolts and sparse gear keeps the route independent, stepping right to join HMT is equally (if not a better option!) nice.

The route ends at 2 bolts shared with HMT.

Location

10 feet to the left of "Hush Mama Thrush"

Protection

5 bolts, plus finger-size gear. Note that the gear above the fourth bolt is minimal, at best. It is a better option to step right and finish up "Hush Mama Thrush".

Photos

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
The last bolt was replaced with a low visual impact glue-in bolt donated by the ASCA. Jul 16, 2015
Thanks, Chris! I climbed most of the rest of the route before downclimbing to the ledge where it is possible to traverse right into HMT - it would take some cleaning, and balls, but notwithstanding not having climbed the slab, it has some great climbing on it and I'd like to free the independent finish. Mar 19, 2013
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
James--

It is commonplace to step right into the final 40' of HMT, as the top of Steal Feathers proper is grossly under-protected. I'll update the gear rating to reflect it. Thanks! Mar 17, 2013
minimal gear is a huge understatement. the first gear placement is the huge fracture about 15 feet above the fourth bolt - easy climbing, but keep a good head on your shoulders. after that, I saw no opportunities for placements; I also hadn't brought gear with me (not knowing the climb or area) and instead ended up solo'ing up hush mama thrush (the line to the right), which provided a runout of 100 feet. not my finest moment, for sure, but I do just want to make anybody new to the Bolton area aware; while the climbing on Steel Feather's first four bolts is great, be aware the protection above is not ideal and the final slab (protected by a rusty looking bolt) is, as Keyan said, totally covered in thick lichen. Mar 10, 2013
Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
  5.10
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
  5.10
Fun as a more challenging start for Hush Mama Thrush. Following it to the top leads to run out climbing on a slab completely covered in lichen, much better as a link-up in my opinion. Sep 12, 2011