Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower West Bolton

A Major T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Minor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A-Sharp T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dead Babies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dogzilla T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gates of Eden T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hailstorm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hush, Mama Thrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In the Pines T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say Goodnight Dick T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
Snake Skin Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Steel Feathers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sticks and Stones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tea in the Sahara T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavey Good-Bye T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's up, doc? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mark Guider
Page Views: 1,918 total · 19/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route

18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Just right of large dirty right-facing corner, sits one of Bolton's finest lines, "Tea in the Sahara". At 10b, and over 100 feet long, this mixed gear/bolt protected face/roof climb is a proud lead.

Thin and thoughtful moves up the face gets to you an imposing roof. The roof, if tackled just right, won't feel too difficult, though if you're mentally taxed, then getting to the next bolt may feel challenging. After a couple more bolts, gain the small left-facing corner protected with gear. A few hard moves protected by one more bolt guard the top out.

draws (some double length), and a small rack to #1 will suffice for the upper corner.


- No Photos -
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
After a final evaluation I removed the last bolt entirely but re-positioned the 4th bolt a few meters lower. I discovered that the "bomber" red C3/blue alien placement mid-way between the 3rd bolt and the crux roof was formed by two large hollow blocks. Given that the holds in this section are a lot of hollow flakes and the fact that the corner to the left bulges out below, I compromised on the side of fall protection. The fourth bolt is now a couple meters below where it used to be. Once past those moves it's relatively smooth sailing to the roof (a #1 provides a buffer against the small run-out).

A new anchor is now left of the large tree on the ledge at the top. This anchor is pretty much straight above the entire line and makes top-roping/cleaning the route a lot easier especially given that the last bolt has been removed. A single 60m rap will just get you down.

One final note about provenance of the hardware. Given the complex history of the fixed protection on this route and the fact that I chose to remove and move bolt placements (with Mark's input), I used hardware that came from my personal pool and not replacement program sources. Aug 19, 2016
Derek Doucet
Derek Doucet  
Sounds like a great plan, Greg. Thank you! Jul 18, 2016
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
I feel like this route and Sticks and Stones are akin to Discombobulated and Legacy in the New River Gorge. Sticks is the classic like Legacy and Tea is the ugly-duckling that is either loved or hated. In both cases I guess I see the diamond in the rough and I think Tea is a worthwhile route. A few tips and finger sized cams and a number 1 C4 are all you need for gear.

I replaced the hardware on this last year after talking with Mark about how to handle the litany of non-FA party bolts added. Four of the seven bolts were added by other parties. In my conversation with Mark he was supportive of a thoughtful compromise as long as we noted that the route was originally only done with two bolts with a third added after to increase its appeal.

I finally re-lead this today, post-replacement, and eschewed a couple of the bolts and used Mark's original finish. Mark originally exited the final corner to the left and climbed straight up the face to the top. I think this climbs better than the traverse to the Sticks anchor and retains the original boldness of the line all while being reasonably safe. The most insecure moves out of the corner onto the face are protected with bomber finger sized gear in the corner and the moves up the face are secure and moderate.

I'm inclined to remove the 4th bolt (good gear below and above) and last bolt and replace the temporary Triplex bolts with glue-ins while at it. I think that retains the route's feeling of commitment while maintaining the current expectation of reasonable protection. I think giving the route a dedicated anchor would also be a good idea. I would appreciate any opinions on this. Jul 17, 2016
Holland, VT
TSluiter   Holland, VT
My opinion is the opposite of Kris here, I thought this climb was fantastic. Delicate but still solid face climbing leads to an initial crux. Passing it up more face climbing with great movement until you get to a very intimidating roof (at least for me). Balance-y moves to pull the roof and a little more delicate face climbing to the top. Excellent route, one of my favorite in the Valley.

Someone recently took out the bolt protecting the roof moves and moved it to a glue-in in a much better location inside the roof. Climb is well protected with bolts, the first bolt is a little high, keeps it spicy. Oct 16, 2015
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
Uninspiring and not nearly worth the "classic" label that often gets thrown around with this climb. Overall a mediocre climb, even as a lead. Sticks and Stones which is right next door is significantly better IMO. May 19, 2015
Climbed the route yesterday, and man was that upper section after the right facing corner caked in crunchy vegetation. Sure made a thrill getting to the last bolt/ topping out, but entirely worth it. I may rap it next time and brush it down, it would be worth doing. Good times! Jun 1, 2012
Dan Flynn
Dan Flynn   MA  
Hey all --

Sorry about the confusion. I've fixed the name and route location. I only climbed at Bolton once, and was writing the description just from memory. If I'm describing the wrong route, please let me know!

I'm happy to let someone else add more details here as well. Aug 22, 2011
OK, for the last time, it's Tea in THE Sahara! :0

You're correct Derek, it was never meant to be a sport route. When I did the FA I placed 2 bolts. Shortly after I added another bolt. I am not responsible for any more than 3.

After the FA several people claimed to have top roped it, but I never heard of anyone leading it au natural. I'd call the route an"X" without the original 2 bolts. Aug 1, 2011
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
Interesting...There is a bolted climb just to the left of a-minor, next to a dirty right facing corner.

Tea In Sahara is next to a dirty right facing corner as well.

As for the one to the left of A-Minor...Does anyone else have information on this? Hopped on it the other day, didn't make it to the 2nd bolt, 10b seems like a pretty solid sandbag.

Can the administrator clean up this posting? Apr 26, 2011
Derek Doucet
Derek Doucet  
This route is actually around the corner to the RIGHT of the A wall, not the left as stated in the description above. Some small to mid sized gear is necessary in the right facing corner above the crux roof to avoid a long run out. It was never intended to be a sport route. FA: Mark Guider, though I've heard rumors of an earlier boltless ascent as well. Aug 5, 2010
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
Isn't there anything you can put for this man? Sep 23, 2009