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Routes in Lower West Bolton
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A Major T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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A Minor T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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A-Sharp T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Allie Direct, The TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X |
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Chalk Stops Here, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Commando T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack of All Trades T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dogzilla T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Flake, The V2-3 5+ |
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Frogs in Space T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Gates of Eden T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hailstorm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Harvest Moon T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Hush, Mama Thrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In the Pines T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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In the Pines Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ladyslippers S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Life's Areola T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Making Babies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Orbital Mechanics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Orgasmic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Playing the Slots T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Poprocks & Coke T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Say Goodnight Dick T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slip, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5 |
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Snake Skin Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Steel Feathers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sticks and Stones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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STP (aka Highlight) S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tea in the Sahara T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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They're Ggggreat! T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Tricycle Parade T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wavey Good-Bye T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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What's up, doc? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.38535, -72.91031 |
| FA: | ACB M. Albers, W. Broache, A. Jacobs, E. Lamb, K. Lane, all parts have been climbed individually over the years |
| Page Views: | 88 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Keys Layn on Aug 3, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
Description
Lots of options for 5.7 climbing with good protection.
Climb it as a single 55 meter pitch (poor communication to top). Or use it as an alternative to Playing The Slots to reach the upper parts of In The Pines, or climb the second half as an alternative second pitch to In The Pines or Playing The Slots.
Start at Playing The Slots, stick clip the first bolt, then move left and stay left of Playing The Slots taking the two corners to reach the large tree on the ledge with the rap anchors for Slots/Pines. Protection can be found after stepping into each corner system. From this ledge climb the crack with three bolts next to it to the lip. Pull up into the ledge with the small trees and then follow the slabs to built an anchor on the trees or use the bolts for Hush Momma Thrush, place pro as needed and be mindful of pine needles.
History: The upper section was free soloed at some point in the 1990s. The lower section was partially climbed by climbers moving left off Playing The Slots. By 2025 the the middle ledge of the first section was entirely overgrown with brambles and six inches of soil and root matter. While clearing this a pair of decomposing boxer shorts was found, hence the route name. Significant cleaning of lichen and moss revealed much of the route. It's unlikely that the upper section was climbed more than a handful of times given the presence of flakes that flexed under body weight and large blocks that were cleared by hand. The presence of bolts next to a crack is due to the looseness of the flake that forms the left side of the crack. The looser parts have been trundled but a slight flexing is still present.
Motivation: The upper section had been eyed for the last decade but the looseness of the crack's flakes and unstable blocks above discouraged commitment. With lichen gradually taking over the area it's hoped that the presence of a well protected climb at the grade will attract more attention to the older routes at LWB and provide fun alternatives if the Wet Corner is busy or for leaders intimated by the traditional endings to In The Pines.
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