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Routes in Lower West Bolton

A Major T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Minor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A-Sharp T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dead Babies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dogzilla T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gates of Eden T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hailstorm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hush, Mama Thrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In the Pines T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say Goodnight Dick T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
Snake Skin Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Steel Feathers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sticks and Stones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tea in the Sahara T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavey Good-Bye T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's up, doc? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,848 total, 33/month
Shared By: Keyan P on Nov 11, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

The route begins at the far right end of the cliff band on a broken face below the obvious right-facing, crescent-shaped flake.

Location

All the way right, the last route on the face. On your left just before reaching the path up to the anchors.

Protection

This route is most commonly toproped from a two bolt anchor accessed by walking around climber's right of the route.

Though this route is leadable, there is some suspect rock (the crescent flake is extremely thin, as well as a substantial runout at the top on easy (5.3) terrain.

Photos

Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
5.7+ R
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
5.7+ R
Rock is still marked with an "X", didn't touch it, climb is still in the 5.7+ - 5.8 range without using it. Jul 25, 2016
TSluiter
Holland, VT
  5.8 R
TSluiter   Holland, VT
  5.8 R
A jug in the right facing flake is becoming a little loose, not terrible, but loose. It is a pretty useful piece of the climb, so be careful.

Marked with an X a while back, looks like it was remarked recently. Jul 26, 2015
Derek Doucet
  5.7 R
Derek Doucet  
  5.7 R
R-rated for sure. I often see people fooling themselves placing junk pro on the initial face, but the reality is that there is little to no worthwhile gear until a horizontal out left accepts finger-sized cams at about 30'. After placing pro in the horizontal, you step back up and right to climb the crux. This gear will probably keep you off the ground through the hardest moves, but it would be an ugly, swinging rag doll fall. After that, there is basically no more solid gear to the top. While very easy, you're deep in to no fall territory by the time you reach the top. To echo Seth, certainly not a climb for an aspiring 5.7 or 5.8 leader. Apr 22, 2012
Seth Maciejowski  
  5.8-
I think this deserves a pg13 at a minimum possibly even an R protection rating. Cam placements in the flaring flake are dubious and tricky to place. Not a route to learn trad technique on.... Apr 22, 2012
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.7+ R
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.7+ R
The route begins at the far right end of the cliff band on a broken face below the obvious right-facing, crescent-shaped flake. Though this route is leadable, there is some suspect rock (the crescent flake is extremely thin, as well as a substantial runout at the top on easy (5.3) terrain. Sep 4, 2011