Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Bruce Jamieson, Bruce Anstatt and Joel Harris 10/8/1987
Page Views: 478 total · 26/month
Shared By: Alan Emery on Jul 23, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

I didn't find one particular crux as the whole route felt the same.

Location

The route is just left of the dihedral climb called A Sharp, the route starts at the toe of the buttress. While the guide Tough Schist claims the start is climbing the thin cracks on a low-angled face, I chose to start by climbing the arete and remained on the arete for the most part. I found this route very enjoyable!

Protection

You can plug gear, taking some larger gear in the fist size cracks, or TR the climb. Two bolt anchors await the climber at the top.

Photos

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Single rack to 3" works, but a double 3" might be helpful at the top if like me you have small hands and aren't in love with 3-4" cracks. You can bump a single 3" cam but a second piece is easier and less prone to the issues of bumping a single cam ever-higher.

I think the lead crux is fairly clear low on the route. A marginal micro cam can be had but it's dubious and the placement is critical to avoid a ground fall. There is also a runout section on easy terrain at middle height of the route. Like many of the trad routes at Lower, I wouldn't recommend this unless the leader is confident at the grade while placing gear. Aug 13, 2017