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Routes in Lower West Bolton

A Major T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Minor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A-Sharp T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chalk Stops Here, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Dead Babies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dogzilla T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gates of Eden T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hailstorm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hush, Mama Thrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In the Pines T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say Goodnight Dick T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
Snake Skin Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Steel Feathers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sticks and Stones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tea in the Sahara T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavey Good-Bye T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's up, doc? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Bruce Jamieson, Bruce Anstatt and Joel Harris 10/8/1987
Page Views: 299 total · 25/month
Shared By: Alan Emery on Jul 23, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

I didn't find one particular crux as the whole route felt the same.

Location

The route is just left of the dihedral climb called A Sharp, the route starts at the toe of the buttress. While the guide Tough Schist claims the start is climbing the thin cracks on a low-angled face, I chose to start by climbing the arete and remained on the arete for the most part. I found this route very enjoyable!

Protection

You can plug gear, taking some larger gear in the fist size cracks, or TR the climb. Two bolt anchors await the climber at the top.

Photos

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Single rack to 3" works, but a double 3" might be helpful at the top if like me you have small hands and aren't in love with 3-4" cracks. You can bump a single 3" cam but a second piece is easier and less prone to the issues of bumping a single cam ever-higher.

I think the lead crux is fairly clear low on the route. A marginal micro cam can be had but it's dubious and the placement is critical to avoid a ground fall. There is also a runout section on easy terrain at middle height of the route. Like many of the trad routes at Lower, I wouldn't recommend this unless the leader is confident at the grade while placing gear. Aug 13, 2017

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