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Hush, Mama Thrush

5.8, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 63 votes
FA: Jamieson, Hassol, 1990
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

On the right side of the middle section of the cliff, is this diamond-in-the-rough.

Locate the ramp-like feature roughly 20 feet off the ground with a blocky--usually wet--start. Gain the ramp and make some tedious, and slippery moves up to the small roof. Place some gear, move up over the small overhang using some finger holds to a stance that forces you move up through additional finger moves with slippery feet. This yields a surprisingly fun finger crack that takes you to the top.

Location

On the right side of the middle section of the cliff.

Protection

A nice variety of gear with some doubles in the small-ish size. Also, a good assortment of nuts is helpful. A 60 meter rope will allow you to lead the route and belay from the top; however, you CANNOT toprope it with a 60m.

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Bottom half of the route
[Hide Photo] Bottom half of the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a really great route. The gear is real solid, but watch for a wet start. An alternate start is to start on the bolted route to the left and after 4 bolts traverse right into HMT (about 5.10a). Aug 14, 2008
Derek Doucet
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] Best route at Lower West? Probably so. Apr 18, 2011
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb.

I got a cam stuck at the very bottom of this route today. I'd like it back, so if you can manage to get it out please contact me. Thanks! May 12, 2011
Tyler Wellman
Cambridge
[Hide Comment] I believe there is a name for when you get a cam stuck and someone else gets it out: BOOTY!

Just sayin... Jul 1, 2011
[Hide Comment]
  • *the pin is no longer on the route!
Mar 12, 2012
Chris Duca
Fayette, ME
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Andrea. The change has been made! Mar 18, 2012
[Hide Comment] Great pitch! I never tire of it. Good interesting moves throughout. I agree with Derek. Best pitch at lwb. Apr 22, 2012
Derek Doucet
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] LOL. Just read Chris's description in more detail. I feel the "tedious, slippery moves" up the ramp are some of the coolest on the route. Different strokes, I guess!

Thanks for the heads up about the pin (which I placed in about 1997, I think), Andrea. Without it, the crux overlap will be a fairly exciting lead at the grade. It's for the best that it's gone, though. The lower edge of the crack it was in has loosened considerably over the years, and has started to sound quite hollow. It was almost certainly rusty junk after 15 years in the Vermont elements anyway. Apr 22, 2012
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
[Hide Comment] Varied, exciting, long, and just fun. Don't miss the sneaky nut placement up higher on the right when you start ascending the ramp. Apr 24, 2012
M A
 
[Hide Comment] Favorite 5.8 in Vermont thus far. Amazing. May 24, 2013
TSluiter
Holland, VT
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] Ultra fun route! one of, if not the best moderate I've climbed in VT. Jul 11, 2015
[Hide Comment] Still lots of fun. Overlap felt spicy, with marginal .75 and 1" horizontal cams equalized. Maybe a tricam would work better.

This thing eats nuts. Aug 1, 2016
Tony Telesco
Burlington, VT
 
[Hide Comment] This can be toproped with a 60m by carrying up enough cordage to make an anchor about 15-20 feet below the bolted anchor. Aug 1, 2019
Fletcher Codd
Plattsburgh
 
[Hide Comment] offset nuts are a gift for the top section Oct 8, 2019
[Hide Comment] Wow, I had no idea this route was so popular! Maybe I should go back and climb it again! :-)

This route was named for the Hermit Thrush that had build a nest on the left-leaning ramp below the roof, that the first ascenders had to carefully climb past to not disturb the four baby birds. Mama Thrush was not amused, and she vocally let us know that. Sep 18, 2020