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Routes in Upper Tier - Right End

Bungasana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dr. Dias T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Featherweight Champion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippie With a Hand Grenade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mal Bouche T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: B. Wade and ??? Fall 09
Page Views: 1,400 total, 21/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Fantastic pitch! Nice exposure and handcrack high up on a bottomless arete. Good trad sections and bolts where you need em'. Start on Birch Tree corner and break right about 50' up at a line of 3 bolts on an awesome face. Follow this to a sweet crack and an awesome stemming finish!

Location

Up and right of the wet brown face directly above the approach trail and on the way to the chockstone crack is a huge open left facing corner. This is birch tree corner. Start up it for 50' then break right above the big overhang.

Protection

gear to hand sized. There's even a nice old pin on the lower section of birch tree to keep with tradition

Photos

Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
 
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
 
Very fun route! Secure with good simple gear at the bottom and upper cracks, and a well bolted face traverse up high. Doesn't get enough love.

For gear I used, roughly in order: #3, #2, #0.75, some nuts, yellow mastercam Sep 7, 2012
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9+
super fun facing climbing with a little exposure, to boot, above the dirty Birch Tree corner. The crack above the line of 3 bolts was short and, to me, seemed more fingery than thin hands (one actual hand jam) with a lot of suspect flakes/chockstones within the crack and horizontal break at about 2/3 height. Aug 8, 2012