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Rose, The T 
Thorn, The T 

The Thorn 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,731
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jan 23, 2011

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  • Description 

    The Thorn sits conveniently to the right, and uphill to its sister route, The Rose. This classic finger/thin hand crack climb is quite the gem that packs some very bouldery and sustained climbing into its short length.
    The route begins easily enough on juggy flakes that jog up and slightly right to a vertical, thin hands section that widens slightly at its top. at the top of the crack, break left on a hard boulder problem that guards the final, short fist-sized crack.

    Top out on semi-insecure moves to a slab with a tree directly in front of you. The tree is affixed with a cable anchor.


    Uphill and to the right of the Rose.


    Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot will suffice.

    Comments on The Thorn Add Comment
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    By Derek Doucet
    Jan 25, 2011
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    A fine variation known as the "The Prick Finish" breaks right, roughly where the original route steps left, and hand traverses along an obvious finger crack up and right to the top. .11bish, and pumpy. Very nice!
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    May 6, 2012
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Tried it once when it was a little wet and it and it slapped me around like a killer whale with a baby seal. I barely made it to the anchor. Gear felt a little tricky on this one in some parts as the crack is a little hollowed out.
    By june m
    From: elmore ,vt
    Aug 9, 2013

    there is a new bolted anchor
    By Eric Chabot
    From: Thetford Ctr, VT
    Sep 25, 2014

    What an awesome route! Steep jugs start things off, and the delicious positive finger locks got me hooting and hollering after the tough (but short) thin hands section. Good active rests can be found on hand jams and locks for the middle part of the route, better use em cuz the bouldery top is physical and committing.

    Gear is there for the whole route, some sections the rock sounded a bit hollow--not having taken many falls on cams in schist I wasn't sure how trustworthy some of the placements were, but the pro rating is a G for sure. gear available at every stance so just sew it up if you're scared like I was (first 5.11 trad send). A good route for breaking into the grade with positive locks, good jams and clean falls. 10d/11a?

    GEAR BETA SPOILER ALERT: Climbed this on a mostly single rack, I brought/placed extra 0.5 and 0.75 BD Camalots (sewed it up) though with more nut placements I'm sure it goes on a single rack to #3.
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