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Routes in Upper Tier - Right End

Bungasana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dr. Dias T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Featherweight Champion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippie With a Hand Grenade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mal Bouche T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Patrick Dyess
Page Views: 707 total, 17/month
Shared By: Connor F-M on Jun 13, 2014
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Begin on an easy start with some flaked rock, up to a large ledge below the second bolt. Thin face climbing leads to an optional anchor below the roof (5.10). Clip one of the anchor bolts, then pull into the roof (crux) and onto a huge flake. Fire through the overhanging jugs and over the lip to reach the anchor.

Location

Hike up and right towards Chalkstone (Captain's Crack). Left of Mal Bouche (roof crack), Featherweight Champion is the obvious, bolted line that goes through the huge roof. The fixed draw or two that hang from the roof are visible from the ground.

Protection

10 bolts. Bolted anchor at the top and an optional anchor in the middle. Usually two fixed draws sit on the two bolts after the first anchor.

Photos

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Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
  5.12b
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
  5.12b
If there isn't a long draw on the second roof bolt, make sure you're solid at the grade. The first bolt on the roof can be clipped from the stance below the roof but without a pre-hung long draw on that second bolt you won't be able to clip it without pulling the crux. Even then, you will likely have to skip the second bolt and make a hard third clip with bad feet. A good belayer will keep you off the ledge but just know what you're doing.

That said, it's a stellar route and very worth the effort. Unlike anything else you'll find in Vermont. Apr 12, 2017