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Stone Staircase  S 

Paradox 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Route Description 

    A solid contender for hardest 10d in Bolton, and certainly a proud line up a wave-like arete.

    Start on the left-hand side of the arete that forms "Against The Grain" on a smattering of positive, crystalline edges. This route requires a wealth of rock craft--edging, steep face climbing, route finding (this is Bolton, after all!), and endurance. Though this route is broken up a bit, the pump clock has the tendency to "time out" on some folks who don't make use of the rests wisely.

    Protection 

    6 or 7 bolts


    Comments on Paradox Add Comment
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    By Keyan P
    From: Burlington, VT
    Nov 27, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont...
    By Zak Munro
    From: VT, Leadville CO
    May 27, 2013
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    really fun climb with a good mixture of holds on really steep slightly overhanging climbing, but it defiantly gets you a really good pump going. Pretty sure the route was put up not to long ago but I would be wary of the cordelette at the anchor when lowering . Tough Schist also says 11a
    By Derek Doucet
    May 27, 2013
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Paradox is a relatively recent addition, but that cordalette is vintage. It's actually there for Against the Grain which is a much older route, and has been in place for quite a while. Paradox really needs its own independent anchor.
    By Derek Doucet
    Jul 21, 2013
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Paradox now has an independent anchor. To preserve the character of the top-out while still minimizing rope wear and providing a smooth pull, it was placed high on the wall above the finishing ledge.

    If this thing is 5.11, it's the easiest 5.11 in Bolton.
    By jhan
    From: Lebanon, NH
    Sep 30, 2013

    Regular Rumney 5.11-12 leader. This felt harder than 10d-11a, especially after climbing the Fresh Meat 10b (adequately rated)right next door. Love the subjectivity of the grades, but this low-balling seems appropriate for Vermont. Regardless this is a great route with great moves and aesthetics(cliff arete). C,mon, it's bolted, go for it!!