Against The Grain 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Jan 23, 2011 |
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Description Against The Grain is a tremendous line up somewhat hidden section of cliff. This route allows for safe/difficult climbing on a fractured, gear protected face at first, then a sweeping arete littered with bolts.
Hard moves off the deck lead to some difficult exit moves to the first ledge (optional anchor). More hard moves off the ledge lead to balancy, bolt-protected arete climbing to the anchor. When last I climbed this, I left as though I could have skipped a couple of the upper bolts, as they are fairly close together.
After the initial chossy rock, this route yields some fine schist (oxymoron?!) to the top.
Location Tucked into a right facing corner, roughly 150 feet to the left from where the main face ends and the Rose/Thorn face begins.
Protection Single rack, making sure to bring a #3 Camalot, and a few large Stoppers.
| Comments on Against The Grain |
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By Derek Doucet
Jan 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| A great looking line that is sadly flawed. It is broken at half height by a huge ledge, requires deliberate avoidance of a big chossy corner in places, and doesn't really climb the stunning arete that appears so compelling from below. It's really more of a face climb in close proximity to an arete, with some poor rock thrown in for good measure. The two sport routes just to the left are much, much better IMO, and of roughly the same difficulty (.10a to .11a). Certainly worth an ascent if one has never done it, but not a route I return to more than once every few seasons. Just my opinion, of course! |
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