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Routes in Lower Tier

Against The Grain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beginner's Luck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bilateral symmetry T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Bookend, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Erica's Ass Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fresh Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konto's Sport Route S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Lorax, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mind the 'Mudgeon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Normandy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oompa Loompa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paradox S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peachy Canoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rented Mule S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: T.Peckham 2010
Page Views: 1,261 total, 18/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 16, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Climb some tricky moves off the ground through a perpetually wet section of rock to a good rest bucket and a bolt. Make an awkward, strenuous stemming move into the right facing corner and then climb hero jugs up to an "in your face" bear hug move at the top...

Location

Left of Against the Grain. Past the paradox bolt line. There is a discontinuous crack system and right facing corner climbing through a wet section of the cliff.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
The awkward contiguous chain set at the top of Fresh Meat that I've seen used as a TR anchor has been updated with rap rings. One of the bolts was a spinner and the threads had been damaged when it was installed so I couldn't attempt to remove it with the spinning technique. I tried funking it but eventually the expansion effect caught further up in the hole. I'll need to go back and cut it off when I replace the temporary Triplex bolt with a glue-in in the near future. It's pretty clear which bolt is jingus and which bolts are good. Oct 12, 2017
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Just for clarity, Zak's comment about not an easy TR is prior to a shared anchor being installed with Paradox. The anchor sits between the two lines and facilitates easy top-roping if you're able to get to the top of either line.

This anchor was converted to a pig-tail lower-off a couple months ago. Please help the hardware last as long as possible and don't top-rope directly through the pig-tail. Setup your own top-rope anchor off the bolts/chain and just thread through the pig-tail when you need to break down your TR anchor. Sep 14, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
It's completely unnecessary but just for shits I lead this on gear. Totally goes with reasonable pro. Not quite G-rated but not bad. Sep 12, 2016
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
this description pretty much sums it up, tricky moves getting out of the roof but good holds. Defiantly a bit awkward but a good pumpy route, wouldn't be great to TR, we had quite a hard time just pulling the rope after leading May 19, 2013