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Routes in Lower Tier

Against The Grain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beginner's Luck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bilateral symmetry T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Bookend, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Erica's Ass Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fresh Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konto's Sport Route S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Lorax, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mind the 'Mudgeon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Normandy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oompa Loompa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paradox S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peachy Canoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rented Mule S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ACB : S. Maciejowski T. Peckham 09
Page Views: 143 total, 2/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Classic Bolton crack climbing! P1 is a grovelly short offwidth. Bring very large cams or big bros, or sack up and run it out. good arm bars but hard to move up and somewhat dirty. Grovel through brush to a hemlock tree. Belay. P2 - Climb the sweet chimney (5.7) good gear in the chimney to the high point of upper west.


The upper chimney is visible from Duck Brook circle. The bottom offwidth is located immediately right of stone staircase downhill about 200' left of the Rose.




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Did this route again yesterday and after reviewing the guidebook i think the proper finish is to climb the face to the right of the initial squeeze chimney on the second pitch then enter the chimney at the upper ledge where its more reasonably sized. Did the lower chimney again and holy Sh#@ was it hard to fit through, must have been way skinnier 2 years ago. Took 45 minutes of full on thrutching and a mini epic redirecting the rope as my followers couldn't fit! Moral of the story I wouldn't recommend the "direct" squeeze unless your rather skinny Aug 11, 2016
Wow this thing is a crazy adventure! Very wide gear needed for first pitch a 6 protects crux but it's bigger up top. Second pitch is the wildest squeeze chimney I've ever done make sure your partner and you can both fit in this slot canyon. The whole thing can be climbed with one #6 if you like squeeze chimneys...

There is a 5.6 variation that stays out of the chimney and climbs up on the face around it thats not bad. Aug 28, 2014