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Routes in Lower Tier

Against The Grain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beginner's Luck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bilateral symmetry T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Bookend, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Erica's Ass Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fresh Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konto's Sport Route S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Lorax, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mind the 'Mudgeon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Normandy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oompa Loompa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paradox S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peachy Canoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rented Mule S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Pat Dyess and Claudine Safar
Page Views: 808 total, 15/month
Shared By: Derek Doucet on Jul 21, 2013
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Begin just left of Oompa Loompa, and 2 routes left of Normandy. Climb the thin crack through a steep start (RPs and small cams) to a good stance beneath the very steep shallow left facing corner. Clip the high bolt and decipher a puzzling and technical crux to gain a second stance beneath the obvious exit "slab". Gain the slab now well out from the bolt, place a couple of finger sized pieces, and surmount the surprisingly interesting exit moves (steeper than they appear from below). The anchor is not visible from below. A great pitch.

Protection

Small wires, a hand sized piece, and some finger sized cams, plus one bolt.

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.11- PG13
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.11- PG13
Great route that deserves more attention.

Two finger size pieces are good for the top, as the placement is pretty critical.

A couple cams in the 1-1.5" range provide somewhat dubious protection gaining the left-facing corner. Sep 17, 2016