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Routes in E - Lower Tier

5.7 Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
5.7+ Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Against The Grain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beginner's Luck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bilateral symmetry T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Fresh Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kontos Sport Route, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lorax, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mind the 'Mudgeon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic Glory S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Normandy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompa Loompa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paradox S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peachy Canoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Public Property S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rented Mule S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Max Forbes, Luke Barns
Page Views: 1,558 total · 38/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on May 23, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

One of the better beginner sport routes at Upper. Better than it appears from the ground! It's recommended to belay from the top.

The first move can be 5.8 or 5.10 so if you find yourself cursing a lot check your beta. :)

Make a tricky move to get off the ground and gain a nice jug. After the second bolt make a few committing moves to a good hold before traversing right and up on a big rail. Finally, cruise up an atypical slabby schist face on excellent rounded rock to a huge sloping belay ledge with a two-bolt anchor directly below Doug the Subway Fugitive.

Location

Start at a line of glue-in bolts about 50' left of Fresh Meat.

Protection

Fully bolted although the short final 3rd class section up to the anchors is unprotected. Very easy terrain although a fall from this point would prove painful.

Photos

Solid climb, nice warm up for fresh meat or paradox. There is a large(4'x2'?) piece of loose rock to the right of the climb about eight or ten feet off the ground. Not part of the climb, but my climber kicked it on the way down and it had A LOT of play to it. Oct 25, 2017
Cidamon GD
woodbury
  5.7+
Cidamon GD   woodbury
  5.7+
the loose rock has been removed. Careful on rappel as there are more large bricks waiting to fall on your belayer. Jun 20, 2018

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