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Wheeler Mountain Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Wheeler Mountain

a. Woolite 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

b. Moosehead Crack 3 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

c. Hump or Die 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

d. Whine and Cheese 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

e. The Great Corner 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Ethan's Delight 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

f. The Right Stuff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

g. Jugfest, Stella and Casey 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

i. Eagle Point Left 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

j. The Shield 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Misty Mountain Hop 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Practice Slab 12 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14

South Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

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Elevation:	2,383 ft	726 m
GPS:	44.73463, -72.09155 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	64,662 total · 512/month
Shared By:	TSluiter on Oct 11, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Approach and Parking

You can park at the trailhead for the Wheeler mountain hiking trail. Or alternatively, you can approach from the north end of Lake Willoughby, and there is a parking spot at the boundary of the state land.

Due to the recent flooding and rains, it is not recommended to park at the proper wheeler lot, do not pull off by the last house. It's private property.If choosing to continue to the upper lot, check the mud spots. Unless it's dry, the drainage a few hundred feet up the road will be very deep mud, even for high clearance or 4WD .

Description

Wheeler Mountain, as I have read, is one of the classic climbing areas in Vermont. First ascents were completed in the 1940's. It is very well developed, many documented climbs on beautiful granite. Hopefully this place will see more traffic, it is fantastic (and South-facing!).

Ground-up FA's are the way of the world here, as is ground-up bolting.

Travis Peckham's guidebook Tough Schist has almost 100 routes in the Wheeler Mountain section, buy the book.

Getting There

Just east of Lake Willoughby on Wheeler Mountain Road near Sutton, VT. Parts of the mountain are in Lake Willoughby State Forest. 3 Parking areas, one or two of which are on private land. The road in is a little rough but nothing a normal passenger car can't handle. Access to Wheeler Mountain road is off Rt. 5.

The second parking area has the climber's trail heading north to the base of the cliff. Pass a house-sized boulder and stay right to run along most of the climbs via the base of the cliffs. Take a left at the house-sized boulder to get to the Moosehead Crack/Woolite area.

Approach time is ~10 minutes to the first routes, almost an hour to get all the way around the NE side of the mountain. Many, many climbs along the way.

42 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wheeler Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 21 ● VJ's Trad 3 pitches e. The Great Corner
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 4 ● Old School Route Trad 2 pitches Practice Slab
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 33 ● Moosehead Crack Trad, TR b. Moosehead Crack
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 6 ● Woolite Trad 2 pitches a. Woolite
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Red Stinger Trad d. Whine & Cheese
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 11 ● No One to Run With Trad d. Whine & Cheese
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Hump or Die Trad c. Hump or Die
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● The Right Stuff Trad f. The Right Stuff
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● No Entra du Canada Trad j. The Shield
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 19 ● A Kind Gesture Trad, TR b. Moosehead Crack
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 7 ● EthWheel Crack Trad e. The Great Corner
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 7 ● 3/8ths My Ass Trad j. The Shield
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 12 ● Wine and Cheese Trad 3 pitches d. Whine & Cheese
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 14 ● The Great Corner Trad e. The Great Corner