Elevation: 2,400 ft
GPS: 44.735, -72.092 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,017 total · 630/month
Shared By: TSluiter on Oct 11, 2015 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details
Access Issue: See CragVT.org for more info Details

Logging Operations

As of 5/31:

With the logging operations completed, Wheeler Mountain is again open to the public and to climbers. Please adhere to any new signage posted and note that the trail to the top of the mountain will likely remain closed until September for rerouting purposes.

Description

Wheeler Mountain, as I have read, is one of the classic climbing areas in Vermont. First ascents were completed in the 1940's. It is very well developed, many documented climbs on beautiful granite. Hopefully this place will see more traffic, it is fantastic (and South-facing!).

Ground-up FA's are the way of the world here, as is ground-up bolting.

Travis Peckham's guidebook Tough Schist has almost 100 routes in the Wheeler Mountain section, buy the book.

Getting There

Just east of Lake Willoughby on Wheeler Mountain Road near Sutton, VT. Parts of the mountain are in Lake Willoughby State Forest. 3 Parking areas, one or two of which are on private land. The road in is a little rough but nothing a normal passenger car can't handle. Access to Wheeler Mountain road is off Rt. 5.

The second parking area has the climber's trail heading north to the base of the cliff. Pass a house-sized boulder and stay right to run along most of the climbs via the base of the cliffs. Take a left at the house-sized boulder to get to the Moosehead Crack/Woolite area.

Approach time is ~10 minutes to the first routes, almost an hour to get all the way around the NE side of the mountain. Many, many climbs along the way.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Wheeler Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wheeler Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 14
VJ's
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Moosehead Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Woolite
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Red Stinger
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
It's a Fine Line
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
No One to Run With
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 3
Steel Monkey
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
VJ's Direct
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
The Right Stuff
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
A Kind Gesture
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
EthWheel Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Wine and Cheese
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
The Great Corner
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
VJ's e. The Great Corner
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Moosehead Crack b. Moosehead Crack
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Woolite a. Woolite
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Red Stinger d. Whine & Cheese
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
It's a Fine Line b. Moosehead Crack
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
No One to Run With d. Whine & Cheese
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Steel Monkey e. The Great Corner
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
VJ's Direct e. The Great Corner
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Right Stuff f. The Right Stuff
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Kind Gesture b. Moosehead Crack
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
EthWheel Crack e. The Great Corner
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Wine and Cheese d. Whine & Cheese
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
The Great Corner e. The Great Corner
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Wheeler Mountain »

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