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Wheeler Mountain Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 2,382 ft | 726 m |
| GPS: |
44.73463, -72.09156 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 64,229 total · 576/month | |
| Shared By: | TSluiter on Oct 11, 2015 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
Approach and Parking
Due to the recent flooding and rains, it is not recommended to park at the proper wheeler lot, but rather the pull of on the right just past the last white house. The house is on the right, with the pull-off on the left. If choosing to continue to the upper lot, check the mud spots. Unless it's dry, the drainage a few hundred feet up the road will be very deep mud, even for high clearance or 4WD vehicles.
The walk from the lower lot to the upper lot is about 5 minutes so it doesn't add much.
Description
Wheeler Mountain, as I have read, is one of the classic climbing areas in Vermont. First ascents were completed in the 1940's. It is very well developed, many documented climbs on beautiful granite. Hopefully this place will see more traffic, it is fantastic (and South-facing!).
Ground-up FA's are the way of the world here, as is ground-up bolting.
Travis Peckham's guidebook Tough Schist has almost 100 routes in the Wheeler Mountain section, buy the book.
Ground-up FA's are the way of the world here, as is ground-up bolting.
Travis Peckham's guidebook Tough Schist has almost 100 routes in the Wheeler Mountain section, buy the book.
Getting There
Just east of Lake Willoughby on Wheeler Mountain Road near Sutton, VT. Parts of the mountain are in Lake Willoughby State Forest. 3 Parking areas, one or two of which are on private land. The road in is a little rough but nothing a normal passenger car can't handle. Access to Wheeler Mountain road is off Rt. 5.
The second parking area has the climber's trail heading north to the base of the cliff. Pass a house-sized boulder and stay right to run along most of the climbs via the base of the cliffs. Take a left at the house-sized boulder to get to the Moosehead Crack/Woolite area.
Approach time is ~10 minutes to the first routes, almost an hour to get all the way around the NE side of the mountain. Many, many climbs along the way.
The second parking area has the climber's trail heading north to the base of the cliff. Pass a house-sized boulder and stay right to run along most of the climbs via the base of the cliffs. Take a left at the house-sized boulder to get to the Moosehead Crack/Woolite area.
Approach time is ~10 minutes to the first routes, almost an hour to get all the way around the NE side of the mountain. Many, many climbs along the way.
Classic Climbing Routes at Wheeler Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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