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Routes in Whine and Cheese

No One to Run With T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tango Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Cheese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Randy Garcia
Page Views: 243 total · 9/month
Shared By: NEKlimb on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Begins with a couple horizontal cracks up a rounded face and then turns into a beautiful slab climb up a water dike protected by bolts. After climbing up to the small birch tree on the right and then move right to the two-bolt anchors shared with Whine and Cheese.

Can rappel from this anchor with a 60m rope just reaching the ground. Tie end knots.

Location

About 10 feet left of the dominant arch of The Whine and Cheese area. Starts just as the trail starts to head back down hill.

Protection

Traditional protection off the ground, but the slab is then protected by about 6 bolts to the anchors.

Photos

NEKlimb
 
NEKlimb  
 
Agree on rating John. Bolts have been added since the guidebook came out making the rating no longer R like the book says. Oct 28, 2016
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.8
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.8
Pretty fun climb. I don't think it deserves the R rating as indicated in the guidebook. I'd say it's PG or maybe PG-13. Didn't feel dangerous, just possible to catch some air. Crux moves are well above bolts.

Personally, I'd be careful rapping off with a single 60m as the description suggests. We rapped it with 2 ropes and it didn't appear a 60m would get there, even with stretch. Knot the ends to say the least! Oct 19, 2016