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Routes in Whine and Cheese

No One to Run With T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tango Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Cheese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Randy Garcia, Eric Pospesil, Oct 20. 1993, P3 Jul. 28 2002
Page Views: 480 total, 31/month
Shared By: doliver on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

A full value, full length route that takes on the imposing head-wall at the top of the cliff. Superb technical climbing with great protection and a powerful exposed finish makes this route a must do for any climber looking to experience some fantastic 5.11 face climbing.

P. 1 (5.10a)
Climb up the slab just to the left of the large right angling overlap. Four bolts and gear take you up and left to a 2 bolt anchor.

P. 2 (5.8)
Scramble up through a couple trees then cruise up the steep face above on steep flakes and cracks trending left to a large sloping ledge. Establish a belay with gear and the first bolt on the head-wall for the last pitch. (There is no rap anchor for this pitch so unless you want to leave gear or rap off a single bolt be prepared to send the next pitch.

P. 3 (5.11a)
The money pitch, delicately work your way up the steep face past four bolts then plug a cam and blast out the overhanging crack on the right and eventually crank up and stand in the crack and delicately foot traverse out right then up through easier ground to the summit.

Down-climb/rappel VJ's or take the summit trail down.

Location

Left end of the Wine and Cheese wall ledge just left of the large overlap

Protection

Standard rack to 3"

Photos

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