Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mount Pisgah

Called on account of Rains T WI5+ R
Crazy Diamond T WI4+
Extensive Homology T WI5 PG13
Float like a butterfly(land like a tomato) T WI4+
Glass Menagerie T WI5
Last Gentleman T WI5
Mindbender T WI5+
Plug and Chug T WI5
Promenade, The T WI5+
Reign of Terror T WI5
Renormalization T WI4
Shaker Heights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI5
Tablets Center, The T WI3-4
Tablets Left, The T WI3-4
Tablets Right, The T WI2-3
Twenty Below Zero gully T WI4+
Who's Who in Outer Space T WI5
Zephyr T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI3+
Type: Trad, Ice, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Tim & Rainsford Rouner, 1976
Page Views: 7,090 total, 59/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A classic long ice climb with alpine character at Willoughby. Last Gentleman climbs a huge, over 100 foot-wide ice flow at the back of the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Usually done in 4 pitches but that can vary depending on the amount of meandering dictated by ice conditions. The below pitch-by-pitch break down is only approximate and describes how we did it on that particular day.

Pitch 1: Traverse the left-leaning ramp past the bolt to the ledge at the bottom of a vertical flow. Belay from screws and V-threads.
Pitch 2: Climb the vertical section (WI5) until it's possible to set up a belay on a more gradual ice.
Pitch 3: Climb fun bulges (WI3) to the base of the final vertical flow.
Pitch 4: Climb the steep flow (WI4-5 depending on conditions) and set up anchors from slings around trees.

To descent, either rap the route using v-threads, or hike up and right until you join the snowshoe trail (blue marks). Follow the trail south along the cliffline for about 45 minutes. The trail eventually leads to the road just south of town.

Location

Last Gentleman climbs the left-hand side of the two immense ice flows in the back of the Amphitheater. The right flow is the Promenade (WI5+). To the left of Last Gentleman is thinner and sustained Who's Who in Outer Space.

For all routes in the Last Gentleman Amphitheater it is best to park the car at the small right pull-off behind the "Watch for FALLEN ROCK" sign (on weekends get there early, the pull-off fills fast). Locate the climbers trail ascending the slope towards the Amphitheater. Good 20 min. uphill hiking leads to a stand with emergency kit. From here, move right to the middle of the Amphitheater and locate the diagonal left-leaning ramp, which leads to the base of a vertical ice flow. This is the first pitch of Last Gentleman.

Reference: An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England by S.P. Lewis and R. Wilcox

Updated route conditionts can be found at NEice and NEClimbs websites. These sites are also sources for additional route info and pictures.

Protection

Ice screws and V-threads. There are two sets of around-the-tree rap slings on top of the last pitch. The guidebook suggests using blade pitons for the traverse on Pitch 1. We didn't need them but in less icy conditions they could definitely come in handy.

Be wary that the climbs at Willoughby face sun most of the day and the ice conditions can change quickly. We climbed Last Gentleman on a cloudless sunny day. The crux column got mushy and chandeliered, and the screws (and v-threads) were melting out fast throughout the entire climb. The first 2 screws on the crux pitch pulled and fell out when I was pulling the slack on top belay. In these conditions we decided to walk off on snowshoe trail instead off rapping the route.

0 Comments