Elevation: 1,169 ft
GPS: 44.742, -72.048 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,963 total · 340/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
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Description

We're claiming it: This is the largest concentration of hard ice routes in the continental United States. Several committing multipitch grade IV WI5s or harder can be found towering above the lake waiting to test you. Willoughby is also home to the East Coast's first bonafide WI6 ice climb: Call of the Wild II WI6 which was first freed by Jim Shimberg in March of 1996. In summary, you can't throw an ice axe around here without finding WI5. Enjoy.

Ice Climbing conditions on NEIce:
http://www.iceclimbingforums.com/forumdisplay.php?18-Vermont

Getting There

Route 5A about 15 miles North of Lyndonville, VT. Park below the routes and hike in (30-60 minutes).

From Montreal:
200km, 2:15
On Google maps
  • Head south-east on Autoroute 15 S and take Champlain Bridge
  • Continue onto Autoroute 10 E, About 1 hour 11 mins, go 114 km
  • Take exit 121 to merge onto Autoroute 55 S toward Coaticook/Stanstead/Magog/Vermont/Autoroute 91
Entering United States (Vermont), About 21 mins, go 34.8 km
  • Continue onto I-91 S, About 15 mins, go 25.4 km
  • Take exit 26 for VT-58/US-5 toward Irasburg/Orleans, About 1 min, go 400 m
  • Turn left onto US-5 S/VT-58 E
Continue to follow VT-58 E, About 1 min, go 1.2 km
  • Slight right onto Church St go 300 m, Continue onto East St go 130 m
  • Slight right onto VT-58 E/Evansville Rd/Willoughby Ave,
Continue to follow VT-58 E/Evansville Rd, About 9 mins, go 10.2 km
  • Slight right onto VT-5A S/Willoughby Lk Rd
Continue to follow VT-5A S

Lodging and dinning

You'll find plenty of choices within 20 minutes of the cliffs, south in Burke, Lyndon and Lyndonville, and a couple places west near Barton.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Willoughby

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 20
Last Gentleman
Ice 4 pitches
WI5
 5
Who's Who in Outer Space
Ice 3 pitches
WI5+ R
 7
Called on account of Rains
Ice 4 pitches
WI4-
 22
The Tablets Left
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-5
 20
Crazy Diamond
Ice 2 pitches
WI5+
 12
Mindbender
Ice
WI5+
 13
The Promenade
Ice 4 pitches
WI4+
 15
Renormalization
Ice
WI4+
 13
Float like a butterfly(land like…
Ice 3 pitches
WI4+
 26
Twenty Below Zero gully
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 19
Glass Menagerie
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 9
The Tablets Center
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 5
Plug and Chug
Ice 2 pitches
WI5 PG13
 5
Extensive Homology
Ice 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI5
 5
Shaker Heights
Ice 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Last Gentleman Mt Pisgah
 20
WI5 Ice 4 pitches
Who's Who in Outer Space Mt Pisgah
 5
WI5 Ice 3 pitches
Called on account of Rains Mt Pisgah
 7
WI5+ R Ice 4 pitches
The Tablets Left Mt Pisgah
 22
WI4- Ice 2 pitches
Crazy Diamond Mt Pisgah
 20
WI4-5 Ice 2 pitches
Mindbender Mt Pisgah
 12
WI5+ Ice
The Promenade Mt Pisgah
 13
WI5+ Ice 4 pitches
Renormalization Mt Pisgah
 15
WI4+ Ice
Float like a butterfly(land… Mt Pisgah
 13
WI4+ Ice 3 pitches
Twenty Below Zero gully Mt Pisgah
 26
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
Glass Menagerie Mt Pisgah
 19
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Tablets Center Mt Pisgah
 9
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
Plug and Chug Mt Pisgah
 5
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
Extensive Homology Mt Pisgah
 5
WI5 PG13 Ice 2 pitches
Shaker Heights Mt Pisgah
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI5 Ice 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Lake Willoughby »

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Photos

I would argue that it is the largest collection of hard ice in the US. Jan 14, 2014
Eric Munsing
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Eric Munsing   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Additional details on the area would be really helpful- how long is the season (as this is south-facing, I'm guessing it's shorter than elsewhere at this latitude), is there a guidebook for the climbs, and what are some good gear shops or local guiding services for beta on conditions? Jan 26, 2019 · Temporary Report
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
Hey Eric,

It's hard to answer some of those questions because of how remote Lake Whilloughby is. The closest shop or guiding service would be in either Burlington, VT (2 hours west) or North Conway, NH (2 hours south).

Similarly, as for a guidebook, there isn't one that's up to date. Ice Climber's Guide to New England Third Edition came out more than 15 years ago. Although it does have a majority of the climbs, if you've never been to Lake Willoughby you're better off using Mountain Project than trying to track down a copy of the guidebook.

As for aspect, consider it WSW. Most climbs go into the sun around 11am/noon. Feb 4, 2019 · Temporary Report