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Areas in Lake Willoughby

Mount Hor 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mount Pisgah 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Elevation: 1,169 ft
GPS: 44.742, -72.048 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,768 total · 264/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
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Description

The largest concentration of hard ice routes in the Northeast (if not continental US). Several committing multipitch grade IV WI5s and harder. Home to the east coast's first bonafide WI6 ice climb: Call of the Wild II WI6 which was first freed by Jim Shimberg in March of 1996.

Ice Climbing conditions on NEIce:
http://www.iceclimbingforums.com/forumdisplay.php?18-Vermont

Getting There

Route 5A about 15 miles North of Lyndonville, VT. Park below the routes and hike in (30-60 minutes).

From Montreal:
200km, 2:15
On Google maps
  • Head south-east on Autoroute 15 S and take Champlain Bridge
  • Continue onto Autoroute 10 E, About 1 hour 11 mins, go 114 km
  • Take exit 121 to merge onto Autoroute 55 S toward Coaticook/Stanstead/Magog/Vermont/Autoroute 91
Entering United States (Vermont), About 21 mins, go 34.8 km
  • Continue onto I-91 S, About 15 mins, go 25.4 km
  • Take exit 26 for VT-58/US-5 toward Irasburg/Orleans, About 1 min, go 400 m
  • Turn left onto US-5 S/VT-58 E
Continue to follow VT-58 E, About 1 min, go 1.2 km
  • Slight right onto Church St go 300 m, Continue onto East St go 130 m
  • Slight right onto VT-58 E/Evansville Rd/Willoughby Ave,
Continue to follow VT-58 E/Evansville Rd, About 9 mins, go 10.2 km
  • Slight right onto VT-5A S/Willoughby Lk Rd
Continue to follow VT-5A S

Lodging and dinning

You'll find plenty of choices within 20 minutes of the cliffs, south in Burke, Lyndon and Lyndonville, and a couple places west near Barton.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Willoughby

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
Last Gentleman
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI5+ R
Called on account of Rains
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI3-4
The Tablets Left
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
Crazy Diamond
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5+
Mindbender
Trad, Ice
WI5+
The Promenade
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4
Renormalization
Trad, Ice
WI4+
Float like a butterfly(land like a to…
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI4+
Twenty Below Zero gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5
Glass Menagerie
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI2-3
The Tablets Right
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
The Tablets Center
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5
Plug and Chug
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5 PG13
Extensive Homology
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI3+
Zephyr
Trad, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Last Gentleman Mount Pisgah WI5 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Called on account of Rains Mount Pisgah WI5+ R Trad, Ice 4 pitches
The Tablets Left Mount Pisgah WI3-4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Crazy Diamond Mount Pisgah WI4+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Mindbender Mount Pisgah WI5+ Trad, Ice
The Promenade Mount Pisgah WI5+ Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Renormalization Mount Pisgah WI4 Trad, Ice
Float like a butterfly(land… Mount Pisgah WI4+ Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Twenty Below Zero gully Mount Pisgah WI4+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Glass Menagerie Mount Pisgah WI5 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
The Tablets Right Mount Pisgah WI2-3 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
The Tablets Center Mount Pisgah WI3-4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Plug and Chug Mount Pisgah WI5 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Extensive Homology Mount Pisgah WI5 PG13 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Zephyr Mount Pisgah 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI3+ Trad, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Lake Willoughby »

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Photos

I would argue that it is the largest collection of hard ice in the US. Jan 14, 2014

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