Description

The largest concentration of hard ice routes in the Northeast (if not continental US). Several committing multipitch grade IV WI5s and harder. Home to the east coast's first bonafide WI6 ice climb: Call of the Wild II WI6 which was first freed by Jim Shimberg in March of 1996.

Ice Climbing conditions on NEIce:
http://www.iceclimbingforums.com/forumdisplay.php?18-Vermont

Getting There

Route 5A about 15 miles North of Lyndonville, VT. Park below the routes and hike in (30-60 minutes).

From Montreal:
200km, 2:15
On Google maps
  • Head south-east on Autoroute 15 S and take Champlain Bridge
  • Continue onto Autoroute 10 E, About 1 hour 11 mins, go 114 km
  • Take exit 121 to merge onto Autoroute 55 S toward Coaticook/Stanstead/Magog/Vermont/Autoroute 91
Entering United States (Vermont), About 21 mins, go 34.8 km
  • Continue onto I-91 S, About 15 mins, go 25.4 km
  • Take exit 26 for VT-58/US-5 toward Irasburg/Orleans, About 1 min, go 400 m
  • Turn left onto US-5 S/VT-58 E
Continue to follow VT-58 E, About 1 min, go 1.2 km
  • Slight right onto Church St go 300 m, Continue onto East St go 130 m
  • Slight right onto VT-58 E/Evansville Rd/Willoughby Ave,
Continue to follow VT-58 E/Evansville Rd, About 9 mins, go 10.2 km
  • Slight right onto VT-5A S/Willoughby Lk Rd
Continue to follow VT-5A S

Lodging and dinning

You'll find plenty of choices within 20 minutes of the cliffs, south in Burke, Lyndon and Lyndonville, and a couple places west near Barton.

19 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Lake Willoughby Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Willoughby

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 16
Last Gentleman
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI5
 4
Who's Who in Outer Space
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI5+ R
 5
Called on account of Rains
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4-
 21
The Tablets Left
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 17
Crazy Diamond
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5+
 10
Mindbender
Trad, Ice
WI5+
 8
The Promenade
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4+
 14
Renormalization
Trad, Ice
WI4+
 10
Float like a butterfly(land like…
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI4+
 22
Twenty Below Zero gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 15
Glass Menagerie
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 8
The Tablets Center
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 5
Plug and Chug
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5 PG13
 3
Extensive Homology
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI5
 5
Shaker Heights
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Last Gentleman Mt Pisgah
 16
WI5 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Who's Who in Outer Space Mt Pisgah
 4
WI5 Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Called on account of Rains Mt Pisgah
 5
WI5+ R Trad, Ice 4 pitches
The Tablets Left Mt Pisgah
 21
WI4- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Crazy Diamond Mt Pisgah
 17
WI4+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Mindbender Mt Pisgah
 10
WI5+ Trad, Ice
The Promenade Mt Pisgah
 8
WI5+ Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Renormalization Mt Pisgah
 14
WI4+ Trad, Ice
Float like a butterfly(land… Mt Pisgah
 10
WI4+ Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Twenty Below Zero gully Mt Pisgah
 22
WI4+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Glass Menagerie Mt Pisgah
 15
WI5 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
The Tablets Center Mt Pisgah
 8
WI3-4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Plug and Chug Mt Pisgah
 5
WI5 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Extensive Homology Mt Pisgah
 3
WI5 PG13 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Shaker Heights Mt Pisgah
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI5 Trad, Ice 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Lake Willoughby »

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Photos

I would argue that it is the largest collection of hard ice in the US. Jan 14, 2014