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Elevation: 1,185 ft 361 m
GPS: 44.718, -72.02984
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 111,891 total · 525/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore
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Description Suggest change

We're claiming it: This is the largest concentration of hard ice routes in the continental United States. Several committing multipitch grade IV WI5s or harder can be found towering above the lake waiting to test you. Willoughby is also home to the East Coast's first bonafide WI6 ice climb: Call of the Wild II WI6 which was first freed by Jim Shimberg in March of 1996. In summary, you can't throw an ice axe around here without finding WI5. Enjoy.

If you run out of what's listed here just start asking around. MP has less than half of what is actually here.

Ice Climbing conditions on NEIce:
http://www.iceclimbingforums.com/forumdisplay.php?18-Vermont

Getting There Suggest change

Route 5A about 15 miles North of Lyndonville, VT. Park below the routes and hike in (30-60 minutes).

From Montreal:
200km, 2:15
On Google maps
  • Head south-east on Autoroute 15 S and take Champlain Bridge
  • Continue onto Autoroute 10 E, About 1 hour 11 mins, go 114 km
  • Take exit 121 to merge onto Autoroute 55 S toward Coaticook/Stanstead/Magog/Vermont/Autoroute 91
Entering United States (Vermont), About 21 mins, go 34.8 km
  • Continue onto I-91 S, About 15 mins, go 25.4 km
  • Take exit 26 for VT-58/US-5 toward Irasburg/Orleans, About 1 min, go 400 m
  • Turn left onto US-5 S/VT-58 E
Continue to follow VT-58 E, About 1 min, go 1.2 km
  • Slight right onto Church St go 300 m, Continue onto East St go 130 m
  • Slight right onto VT-58 E/Evansville Rd/Willoughby Ave,
Continue to follow VT-58 E/Evansville Rd, About 9 mins, go 10.2 km
  • Slight right onto VT-5A S/Willoughby Lk Rd
Continue to follow VT-5A S

Lodging and dinning

Suggest change
You'll find plenty of choices within 20 minutes of the cliffs, south in Burke, Lyndon and Lyndonville, and a couple places west near Barton.

27 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Lake Willoughby Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Willoughby

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 39
Last Gentleman
Ice 4 pitches
WI5
 8
Who's Who in Outer Space
Ice 3 pitches
WI5+ R
 13
Called on Account of Rains
Ice 4 pitches
WI4
 33
The Tablets Left
Ice 2 pitches
WI5-
 32
Crazy Diamond
Ice 2 pitches
WI5+
 20
Mindbender
Ice
WI5+
 23
The Promenade
Ice 4 pitches
WI4+
 24
Renormalization
Ice
WI4+
 23
Float like a butterfly(land like…
Ice 3 pitches
WI4+
 46
Twenty Below Zero gully
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 37
Glass Menagerie
Ice 2 pitches
WI3
 23
The Tablets Center
Ice 2 pitches
WI5 PG13
 11
Extensive Homology
Ice 2 pitches
WI6
 4
Call of the Wild
Ice 2 pitches
WI5+
 4
Bullwinkle
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Last Gentleman Mt Pisgah
 39
WI5 Ice 4 pitches
Who's Who in Outer Space Mt Pisgah
 8
WI5 Ice 3 pitches
Called on Account of Rains Mt Pisgah
 13
WI5+ R Ice 4 pitches
The Tablets Left Mt Pisgah
 33
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Crazy Diamond Mt Pisgah
 32
WI5- Ice 2 pitches
Mindbender Mt Pisgah
 20
WI5+ Ice
The Promenade Mt Pisgah
 23
WI5+ Ice 4 pitches
Renormalization Mt Pisgah
 24
WI4+ Ice
Float like a butterfly(land… Mt Pisgah
 23
WI4+ Ice 3 pitches
Twenty Below Zero gully Mt Pisgah
 46
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
Glass Menagerie Mt Pisgah
 37
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Tablets Center Mt Pisgah
 23
WI3 Ice 2 pitches
Extensive Homology Mt Pisgah
 11
WI5 PG13 Ice 2 pitches
Call of the Wild Mt Pisgah
 4
WI6 Ice 2 pitches
Bullwinkle Mt Pisgah
 4
WI5+ Ice
More Classic Climbs in Lake Willoughby »

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