Type: Ice, Grade III
GPS: 44.74518, -72.04622
FA: Ted Hammond / Dave Karl. January 27, 1984
Page Views: 466 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Jan 31, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514
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Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Rightmost climb in the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Start in a gully separated from the main bowl by a wall of trees, and climb a short bulge (WI3) to a snowfield and more moderate ice above. It is also possible to walk around this pitch to the left if you just came for the business.

Once established in the upper bowl, belay from trees far from the base of the route. Main ice could possibly go in one mega 70m pitch, but logically breaks into two sections. Pick your way through technical, 3D ice up the path of least resistance. Establish a belay below the upper columns and bring up the second. From here, fire up  pumpy, dead-vertical ice for 20 meters until it levels out into a slight ledge. Build a belay here, or continue up the last 10ft dripping wet curtain (we didn't).

Rap on thread

Description is for winter of 2023, when Bullwinkle came in exceptionally fat.

Location Suggest change

Gnarly pillars to the right of Reign Of Terror

Protection Suggest change

Lots of screws.

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Photos

Pete setting the first belay
Pete setting the first belay
 1
Will leading up Bullwinkle in hard condition
Will leading up Bullwinkle in hard condition
 1
The route.
The route.
 0

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