Type: Ice, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Dave Wright & George Hurley, January 18 1991.
Page Views: 291 total · 64/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Jan 5, 2019
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Start on sloping ramps to reach a right facing chimney. Up the thin ice beside the chimney the continue left along more sloping ramps to a possible belay on a ledge (small nuts). Climb more thin ice until you get to the fatter ice flow below the amphitheatre. Belay here 70 meters from ground.
Climb fatter ice to a good stance behind the left side of the pillar. Bolted belay 30m.
Fire the impressive pillar! Belay above at several possible stances or continue to the trees on top. 60 meters.

Location

Approach up gully as for Last Gent / Promenade or through the woods on climbers left.
The route is left of the cache shed at the base of the cliff.

Protection

Ice screws and rack from pins to #1 C4.

Photos

Phil Salahari
Holderness, NH
 
Phil Salahari   Holderness, NH
 
The lower bit, especially the terrain leading to the pillar, is very exposed to ice fall from above due to the bowl-like nature of the upper amphitheater. Early starts, alternative descents, or waiting for more stable conditions could be worth considering depending on temperatures and sun. Jan 27, 2019