Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches
FA: It's complicated. See below.
Page Views: 54 total · 11/month
Shared By: Aldini Pelliti on Jan 21, 2025
Admins: Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514

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Description Suggest change

P1:Climb the short right leaning corner to a ledge by a large cedar tree. P2:Climb a steep left-leaning corner (crux) and traverse under a roof out left to a ledge and belay. P3:Head up, then out right to an exposed pillar leading to the face above. Reach a ledge 20 feet below the trees. Rap from here or climb the final pillar and make your way through the trees left to descend Called on Account of Rains. V1: Upon reaching the belay ledge at the end of P2, continue climbing up the right-facing corner above to it's top and belay on large questionable cams. Mixed traverse straight out right to the ice flow. V2: Climb more directly up after the Pitch 2 crux corner into the upper hanging column. 

In December 2001, Alden Pellett and Doug Dillon climbed the first two pitches, freeing the mixed crux up the corner but then quickly tension traversing to the belay ledge and rappelling due to water running down the rock face above and temperatures becoming unsafe. The following day, Jean-Francois Morin, Bernard Mailhot, and Mathieu Peloquin climbed the route, stopping at a ledge 40 feet short of the trees. The following day, Alden Pellett and Will Mayo climbed the route, freeing the mixed crux but not yet realizing another party had just been there, used the tension traverse in the interest of speed. From there, they took the route to the top and up the small gully into the trees. The pair then decided it was easier to traverse through the woods over and descend Called on Account of Rains. It was on the way down, they came upon and rescued a two climbers sitting in the dark with no headlamps with their rope stuck, frozen in on rappel, having already let go of one end.

Mayo talked the next day with Mailhot and they all agreed to change their chosen name from Three Musketeers to Five Musketeers having benefitted from using pitons previously placed by Pellett free on the lead.

V1-The route was finally freed completely to the top a couple years later using a short variation of the original line by Pellett and Ryan Stefiuk using a steep corner above the P2 belay ledge when the steep column out right was not in at the time.  V2-Kevin Mahoney and partner later freed a more direct line, eliminating a traverse to the P2 belay ledge out right. The route has since seen at around a dozen known ascents.

Location Suggest change

Start in a prominent right-leaning ice and/or turf-filled corner below a slab right of Called on Account of Rains.

Protection Suggest change

Mixed rack.

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