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Routes in Eagle Hollow

Eagle Shits T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey shoot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Elevation: 1,474 ft
GPS: 43.98, -72.3 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,175 total · 31/month
Shared By: sphaneuf on Sep 22, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Getting weather forecast...


Band of cliffs on a rising ridge plus another lower cliff at the far East end. Mostly solid sculpted rock (granite?)

Great potential for new 30 to 120 foot routes 5.4-5.hard

bring a brush and own it. (Ex. One new route is a 30ft var. on a 5.4 slab route that is 70' long .. needs cleaning will be 5.9 to a BIT higher. The OLD route is fun and well worth the relaxation. (Right end of the main wall, left climb.

There are 100'+ aretes, weird overhangs, left dihedrals etc. This place needs climbers.

At the moment there are maybe 18 climbs, many of which are lichened. This site needs more attention.

Getting There

VT 113 to Vershire. Eagle Hollow Road, over the top and park out of the way on the left side without blocking the 'drive'. This is across from a mailbox labeled BOX1.

Eagle Hollow Rd. on Google earth will situate you.

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newbury, vt
sphaneuf   newbury, vt
From the Dartmouth Outing Club site:Eagle Hollow

This small, but impressive-looking area close to home has been much overshadowed by Rumney and other crags, but local climbers have been enjoying it for many years. Tucked away in a pretty, out-of-the-way Vermont valley, it has a considerable amount of rock, some of it impressively steep.
How To Get There:
Drive north from Hanover and then northwest on Route 113. Just before you get to Vershire, after a curve left in the road and just past a white house, take a right on Eagle Hollow Road. Continue about a mile or so, up a hill, then down the other side. Park by the left side of the road opposite a mailbox (“Box #1” — there is a cabin 200 yards into the woods on the left side). The cliffs are on the right side of the road, a couple-hundred yards uphill. Driving time: 45 minutes.
The obvious approach trail leads to the highest part of the cliff. Here there are a couple of large, 160 foot high dihedrals, which are rated about 5.6, with extensive steep rock to either side. Walking to the right, the cliff becomes very low angle, somewhat grungy, and overgrown. At the extreme right side of the cliff, uphill, there are some large roofs close to the ground, with aid-cracks, at least, and perhaps free routes as well.
Sep 22, 2012
june m
elmore, vt
june m   elmore, vt
the second dihedral is more like 5.8 and has two bolts and a bolted anchor. a 60 m rope will not reach the ground but there is a second anchor on the top of the 5.10 bolted route, the right end of the cliff has at least four easy trad routes up the slab. there is another cliff off to the left with some tr routes Sep 24, 2012
April 2016: There is at least one peregrine falcon at this cliff. If a nesting pair is present please take the usual precautions to avoid disturbing them during the nesting season. After the first of August any chicks will have fledged and all routes may be used. Apr 4, 2016

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