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Routes in Deer Leap

Black Wonton, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog), The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Celibacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pit and the Pendulum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple and Independent Minds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2- PG13
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tonys Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Arni Kirbach and Carl Acker
Page Views: 4,988 total · 39/month
Shared By: Mike Baetz on Mar 22, 2008
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Climb the beautiful finger crack to two possible finishes, left or right, both ending at bolted anchors. Crux is just after the large block about 25' up.


Start about 40' right and down from the left side of the cliff at a slanting finger crack.


standard rack


Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eli Kramer   Saratoga Springs, NY
I would give this 5.7+ for the sustained difficulty of the climb without the kind of rests one often expects. Spectacular finger crack with thin feet in places. The route finishes on the right after the split, the left is the 5.8 direct finish. Worth a visit to the cliff on its own. Oct 22, 2009
Actually the left crack mentioned above is 5.7 as well. The direct finish jogs left further down (about 2/3 of the way up) and then turns right again before reaching the anchors. I do agree with the 5.7+ though. Oct 24, 2009
Sam Fox
Burlington, VT
Sam Fox   Burlington, VT
The left variation is without a doubt 5.8 May 1, 2016

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