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Routes in Marshfield Ledge

"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Aladdin's Ladder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Banch Berries T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banches With Wolves S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bless The Rains S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bum Cakes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Wing Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deadline, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groton High Grade S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
High Grade Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
High Grade The Hard Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ledge Connector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Lucky Bun Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pistol Whipped S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Swarm, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wankers in the Kingdom T WI5 M5+ A0 R
Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
marshfield corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Zach Landis, Jen Lloyd, 2003
Page Views: 1,974 total · 14/month
Shared By: Zach Landis on Dec 2, 2006
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Hey Folks. As of July 2018, Black Streak has received a make over. The old wonky bolts are gonzo.  In their place are 9 glue-in Wave bolts and a new anchor. It climbs much better. Before this upgrade one would have to place gear in the left facing corner, then run it out passing 5 suspect bolts. The current set up is a far more civil affair.  

Start the route where the approach trail arrives at the cliff. Instead of heading into the left facing corner crack, as the route was previously climbed, zig-zag up the easy slab to the new first bolt.  A tricky move past this first bolt gets you off and running up the black streak. Cool holds and technical climbing lead you past 8 more glue-in bolts until the last dash to the ledge and a new 2-bolt anchor and chain. While the route is 36 meters, you can just get down with a 60 meter rope if you pendulum to the right on rappel to where the ground comes a bit higher up the cliff.  A wonderful line of bullet granite.

Location

This route starts at the west end of the cliff. The first sport route one sees when hiking in.

Protection

9 Bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.  

Photos

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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
why did this get a PG-13 rating Jan 7, 2009
Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
Eric8   Maynard, MA
 
maybe you have a long 60 and I have a short 70 but I was just able to make it down with a 70. So 90 feet I think is a bit short. Great route though I really enjoyed it. Sep 8, 2009
Jessie Poquerusse   Rovereto
Excellent pitch! Drippy near top--beware if climbing late in season. Nov 15, 2015

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