Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Ellms, Jed Eliades 1980'2
Page Views: 202 total · 9/month
Shared By: mattseverson on Apr 21, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

From "Tough Schist". "Though it has become quite dirty, there is an attractive right facing corner that can be reached by scrambling up to a ledge left of the start of Shorty's Poop Route."

This is a fun pitch, and though it's probably still dirty (I climbed it roughly 9/16) it'll make a fun alternate start to Boneless Chicken. Climb the thin corner to a right leaning, small roof with flaring underclings. Skirt right along it and then up some good locks. Towards the top the crack widens to a chimney that you can either dive into or stem the outside of. Belay on hemlocks at the ledge shared with top of P1 of Boneless Chicken.

Location

Right of Boneless Chicken and left of Shorty's Poop Rouote. Pass the start of The Deadline and continue uphill, look up and left and you'll see the corner with a small tree growing out of the crack about 5 feet up. Scramble up some mossy slabs/dirty gullies about 30 feet to set belay. From the top you can rap down Boneless Chicken's first pitch, or continue up it's second pitch and rap then, or keep climbing The Deadline or Shorty's.

Protection

Standard rack for most Marshfield trad climbs will do it. Mostly smaller cams.

Photos

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Ira O
Hardwick, VT
 
Ira O   Hardwick, VT
 
As of late August 2017, this climb is wicked wicked dirty. Hard to trust the feet on slab when all is covered with lichen. and the little tiny edges often crumble off. The gear is finicky too, in the lower half of the climb which is also the crux. That said, the top portion is very fun. It might terrify, it might thrill, worth doing? maybe once. Aug 28, 2017