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Routes in Marshfield Ledge

"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Aladdin's Ladder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chicken Wing Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deadline, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groton High Grade S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
High Grade Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
High Grade The Hard Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pistol Whipped S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wankers in the Kingdom T WI5 M5+ A0 R
Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
marshfield corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 440 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Seth Maciejowski, Travis Peckham, Mar. 24, 2012
Page Views: 247 total · 4/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 24, 2013
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Taken by themselves, each pitch may not be three star worthy for one reason or another, but together they represent a sustained, engaging, long route that tops out which is pretty nice.

P1 (5.8 PG): Climb easily up flakes below the yellow birch to a stance at the horizontal crack (gear, critical) pull a tricky friction move (crux?) and climb the clean slab to a right-rising rampish thing and a bolt. Surmount the short bulge and climb te right-leaning/rising flake/crack system to a grassy ledge with a large oak tree belay. 80'

P2 (5.10): From the belay, climb the short/shallow left-facing corner to a bolt and work to right to better holds and a stance (crux 1?). Pass a couple good horizontals (gear) and climb the slab passing four bolts (crux 2) to a stance at a debris filled crack (still able to get a good piece). Tricky/thin moves exit from the crack to the shallow ledge system, step left to a fixed anchor. 100'

P3 (5.10): Trend up and right with minimal gear passing a hollow flake that forms a crack (dubious protection) till you can step right into a crack (gear). Climb up passing a crashpad sized flake gaining a vegetated ledge. Punch through the crap to the base of the steep headwall. Gain the headwall (being careful between the first and second bolts) and make increasingly difficult moves to tricky move before the headwall ends. Either make a tricky mantle, or alternatively hand traverse right 4' and climb a dirty but positive left facing corner to a stance. Climb slabby steps passing horizontals (gear, think about protecting second after they unclip the last bolt). Ultimately trend right and belay at a fixed anchor just left of an oak tree. 100'

P4 (5.9): Climb up to the lone bolt and then run it seriously out through "stair steps" in the bulge. Pass a couple horizontals (gear) and meander through the easiest line until a short steep slab with a bolt. Climb the slab or step right 7' and easily climb a right-facing corner/flake system and slab to the base of the bolted headwall. Climb the headwall (fun/awkard) to a hard exit to a less vertical section (semi poorly placed directional, clip long). Trend up and left (gear) to cool features, a stance, a bolt, the last couple moves, and a mantle finish. Belay at a cedar tree on the left side of the ledge with a fixed anchor on it. 160'

To descend, rappel from the top of P4 to the top of P3, then make one more double rope rappel to the base of the cliff (which gains elevation from the start of the route).

Location

Start:About 30' right of Requim look for a lone healthy yellow birch growing about 20' up.
Descent: Two rappels with double 60m ropes

Protection

Gear: Single rack from micro cams to #1 C4, 12 draws with some shoulder length slings in there.

Photos

Seth Maciejowski
  5.10c
Seth Maciejowski  
  5.10c
Succinct description Greg. Good climbing on each pitch, long route and it tops out. Some bits and pieces detract such as the bushy bit on the bottom of P3... Sep 8, 2015

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