Requiem for a Dreamer
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft|
|FA:||John Sykes and Mike Lee|
|Page Views:||986 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Kuchyt on Aug 24, 2013|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
DescriptionThis route provides a "well-protected" intro to the style of climbing at Marshfield. I use quotes around well-protected because the hardest parts of this route are well protected, however there are sections with significant space between protection, albeit on easier terrain. A fledgling 5.8 leader would probably not be happy on this route.
Climb shallow dirty cracks in a shallow left facing corner to a couple bolts. Climb a left-facing flake to a bolt and then follow bolts up the slab to a sloping ledge and a point where you might ask yourself "Where is the next bolt?". Climb up and slightly left through some lichen covered overlaps with juggy features and you'll pass a couple more bolts until you come to a steep slab with two bolts. Climb this (crux) and then step left into a left-facing flake system that leads to a small ledge and a fixed anchor.
LocationStart: At the right side of the series of blocks leaning against the cliff. Look for a few shallow cracks and a low bolt.
Descent: Double rope rappel from the fixed anchor