Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: John Sykes and Mike Lee
Page Views: 1,169 total · 18/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 24, 2013
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This route provides a "well-protected" intro to the style of climbing at Marshfield. I use quotes around well-protected because the hardest parts of this route are well protected, however there are sections with significant space between protection, albeit on easier terrain. A fledgling 5.8 leader would probably not be happy on this route.

Climb shallow dirty cracks in a shallow left facing corner to a couple bolts. Climb a left-facing flake to a bolt and then follow bolts up the slab to a sloping ledge and a point where you might ask yourself "Where is the next bolt?". Climb up and slightly left through some lichen covered overlaps with juggy features and you'll pass a couple more bolts until you come to a steep slab with two bolts. Climb this (crux) and then step left into a left-facing flake system that leads to a small ledge and a fixed anchor.

Location

Start: At the right side of the series of blocks leaning against the cliff. Look for a few shallow cracks and a low bolt.
Descent: Double rope rappel from the fixed anchor

Protection

Rack: A dozen draws (mix of trad draws and regular) single rack to .75 there are something like 7 or 8 bolts, can't remember.

Photos

Derek Doucet
  5.7
Derek Doucet  
  5.7
P1 is a fine, quick way to round out a day of Marshfield cragging. I haven't ventured any higher, so my comments only pertain to the first 150' of the route which offers high quality "flab" climbing: It's not really slab as there are no real friction moves, but it's pretty low-angle to be called face climbing. So, "face" combined with "slab"= "flab".

In any event, nice rock, nice position, and well protected as low angle ground-up routes go. The sharp left turn after the first grassy ledge is odd and uncharacteristically run out (several excellent drilling stances were passed by) on terrain that is very similar to the more tightly bolted rock below, but it doesn't really detract from the over all experience.

For a comparison, it's reminiscent of Catharis at Poko, but cleaner and more sustained. Enjoy! Sep 24, 2013
I climbed at Marshfield Ledges around the summers of '99-00. I remember climbing a route roughly in the middle of the cliff that matches the description of Requiem pretty well. Although I remember there were a couple of pins on the route. I climbed it twice and always topped out which was exciting as there was a long finger shaped block in the summit overhang which one had to approach from directly underneath. I was able to place gear in a crack at the left end of the block, and then climb above without stepping on the block. It was that kind of situation.
Above this, the final holds at the topout were a small sidepull for the left hand and a crimp at arms reach for the right. "Yard on it" was the term that we used to describe the move preceding the final mantle.
I suspect that the block is gone by now. If anyone has climbed this in recent years and topped out, I'd be curious to hear about it.
YOu may still find a cord with rings tied around a small tree at the top.

One day we climbed another route that ended high on the right end of the cliff. The first pitch was unmemorable but clean, the second was a complete bushwack traverse. The third pitch was a tall left facing corner high up on the right side of the cliff face. There was a very nice crack in the corner ranging from fingers to thin hands with a couple of flaring sections. There were decent feet on the left wall until there weren't. This coincided with a reachy move where the crack momentarily pinched out. I tried a few times but was a bit fired from the horrendous bushwack on the 2nd pitch. So I clipped a piece with a sling and stood in it like and aider and got passed this section.

Sadly I never went back to get it free. If anyone has more info on this one, let me know. Aug 1, 2014
Derek Doucet
  5.7
Derek Doucet  
  5.7
Your description of a tall left facing corner high on the right side of the cliff sounds like the final pitch of what is now Marshfield Corners. It's a superb pitch for sure. Aug 4, 2014