Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chris Elms, Jed Elaides ,Andy Tuthill
Page Views: 489 total · 25/month
Shared By: june m on Aug 27, 2017 with updates from Greg Kuchyt
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This route does not dry well and has become somewhat dirty over the years although it's still worthwhile.

P1: Start on the ledge or do some unprotected friction bouldering. There is thin gear in the flake before moving left to better protection above. At the bolt in the slab continue left. Traverse way left (30 ft) quite unprotected and then up about 10 ft to the anchors. It's also possible to gain that ledge sooner with more difficult moves.

P2: Climb the left-facing corner to near its top. After the pin swing right around the corner.

P3: Climb left-facing corner, stem and laybacking. it takes thin gear especially at the bottom. Traverse left under the roof split by a crack. Big hold out left then continue to top.

Descent: Make four rappels on a single 60m rope. Rappel the corner system in two rappels to the bolted anchor at the top of P1. From the P1 anchor, rappel directly down towards an oak tree and a fixed anchor. One more rappel leads to the ground.

Location

When walking along the base this route is just where the trail starts to turn downhill, just past the boot in the tree. You'll see a big white patch of rock where the second pitch fell off the cliff.

Protection

All the anchors are bolted. A single rack will suffice up to a number 3. Lots of small gear.

Photos

Dillon Warhall
Huntington VT
Dillon Warhall   Huntington VT
My partner took a fall after the roof on the 3rd pitch; with him being 70 feet from the belay there was a lot of rope stretch (only a body length above his last piece and an attentive belay) and he fell 20ish feet with a good slam. Unless 5.10 lay-backing is cruiser for you, I would recommend building a gear anchor after the split roof to split the last pitch in two with great climbing on both ends.

Gear beta: This thing eat up finger sized cams on the final pitch. A small TCU (Green and maybe a tight red BD C3) would help to protect the first couple moves. It's definitely a bit dirty in places, but don't let that deter you for ticking this classic! Oct 19, 2017
Start from the ledge that's up 15ft. The first section gets covered in dirt and debris from the ledge above and its really slippery. Sep 8, 2018