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Routes in Marshfield Ledge

"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Aladdin's Ladder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Banch Berries T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banches With Wolves S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bless The Rains S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bum Cakes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Wing Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deadline, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groton High Grade S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
High Grade Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
High Grade The Hard Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ledge Connector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Lucky Bun Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pistol Whipped S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Swarm, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wankers in the Kingdom T WI5 M5+ A0 R
Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
marshfield corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Brian Wade, Ben Falk
Page Views: 120 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ira O on Sep 9, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Begins in the dirty chimney, at the crest of the hill at the base of Marshfield ledge, just to the right of Marshfield Corners. The chimney looks terrible, but its short, not as bad as it looks, and the climbing above is excellent.

Pitch 1: go up the chimney to a bolt. Continue up then traverse left above an overhang. Continue up the face with a sharp arete for your left hand, (bolts) to an anchor at a good stance. 10a

Pitch 2: Traverse up and right from the anchor, follow bolts to get into a small left facing corner. (crux #1) 2 more bolts gets you to a rest, then into another corner with somewhat finicky gear and ferns that you will probably have to pull out while cruxing. Then mantle up onto a nice big ledge. This is a short pitch. If you are feeling confident, you could easily run p1 and 2 together. 

Pitch 3: Head straight up to the top of the cliff, following bolts and gear. This pitch has a ton of variety and is sustained and beautiful. At one point about halfway up you will see bolt up and to the left, don't let that distract you. That is another, harder variation. clip a bolt, then, go up through a slabby scoop with good gear at the top of it. Continue straight up to an anchor just below the top. The gear is all there.

As defined by oxford dictionary, Solipsism is "the view or theory that the self is all that can be known to exist."

Location

Right of Marshfield Corners. Walking the trail, you trend upwards to the top of a small rise, this is where the climb is located. If the trail flattens out and there is a huge low angled slab, you have gone too far, that is the low grade slab, below the high grade ledge.

Protection

Bolts and gear. Single rack. I used tricams on pitch 3. You only need a couple pieces bigger than a .75 camalot. I'd bring a red and gold. A #3 works in the chimney right off the ground, but that's the only time you need it.

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