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Routes in Marshfield Ledge

"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Aladdin's Ladder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Banch Berries T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banches With Wolves S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bless The Rains S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bum Cakes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Wing Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deadline, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groton High Grade S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
High Grade Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
High Grade The Hard Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ledge Connector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshfield Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
My Lucky Bun Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pistol Whipped S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Swarm, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wankers in the Kingdom T WI5 M5+ A0 R
Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FFA Chris Skalka and Zach Landis September 23, 2018
Page Views: 217 total · 74/month
Shared By: Zach Landis on Jul 26, 2018
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

P1 5.9: the first pitch climbs an open slab, 30 meters to the left of Chicken Wing. Begin left of the first bolt on good edges.  Friction moves on engaging terrain continue past 8 more bolts. The top is a large ledge and a 2 bolt anchor.
P2 5.10a: Locate the second pitch by a short scramble up 4th class terrain and belay right below 2 low bolts in a corner.  Climb the corner and eventually work your way out left onto a face.  Pass more bolts on the face.  At this point you will be very close to the neighboring route, Bum Cakes, and you can link over to this line and go to the Bum Cakes anchor.  Otherwise, continue up on good holds.   Pass a series of cracks and slots placing a couple pieces of gear at good stances.  Turn a slight lip, passing out of sight of your belayer, continue up and to the right on an open slab passing 3more bolts and placing a couple more pieces of gear.  After clipping the last bolt easier terrain gains a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.   From this anchor two 60 meter ropes are the safest option to get down but you may make it with a single 70m.
P3 5.10a:  The third pitch climbs directly above the belay.  Clip the first bolt (glue in wave bolt) and continue to a nice stance where you place a piece of gear.  Continue up past more wave bolts on good holds.  After the 4th bolt a small ramp leads up and right to a ledge.  Place gear off the ledge and work up to a bolt.  Good edges and side pulls get you past 3 more bolts.  Good hand holds and good feet get you to a #2 in a horizontal crack.  Shake out, chalk up and get ready because things are about to get exciting from here.  Crimps and good feet get you up to the last bolt, right below the belay ledge.  A tricky, bouldery, sequence (well protected) gets you up and on to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor.
3 rappels down from here get you back to the ground. Or if you want to top out, traverse right of the belay ledge onto somewhat dirty and lichen covered ground.   There is one bolt that you can clip and continue up and to the right to the trees above.  The walk around to the west (towards the lake) is the best option to walk down.

Location

This is the next route left of Chicken Wing Slab and to the right of My Lucky Bun Day

Protection

The protection for the first pitch is all bolts.
The second and third pitch protects mostly with bolts but several gear placements are needed here and there.
A single standard rack up to #2 camelot should do the trick.

Photos

Ira O
Hardwick, VT
  5.9
Ira O   Hardwick, VT
  5.9
Looking forward to the third pitch! Sep 1, 2018 · Temporary Report

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