Type: Sport
FA: Matt Keefe 4/02
Page Views: 602 total · 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 27, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Not a classic but but worth doing if... Well, say you have already done everything else at the cliff but you find your self there and yer looking for a hard time. The flow of the route was surprisingly cool once I figured it out. A few of the holds are a bit uncomfortable but if you dig hard crimping you will like it.
In the book it mentions hard clips, the only tough clip would be the 3rd clip but once the draws are in place it wasn't too bad.

The 1st section is tricky and a bit hard, say V4, then you get a good rest (almost no hands). I climbed up and clipped bolt #3 then went back to rest. From here you will encounter hard crimping leading to an undeniable crux move (hence the name). I solved it with a dyno off of a razor crimp. That part is about about V7 in my opinion. It's easy to clip the 4th bolt here and figure your way over the lip to the slab above (the lip encounter could use a little scrubbing). Climb the slab past a pin and a bolt to end at the shared anchor with Lies and Propaganda.

This route was misnamed The Move in the latest guidebook.

Ps. the rock is funky, a little sharp but it was all solid... over and out.

Location

Between Lies and Cold Turkey.

Protection

Bolts to anchor.

Photos