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Hold Me aka The Move
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 1.3 from 6
votes
Routes in Center Section
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Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Matt Keefe 4/02 |
| Page Views: | 1,704 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Apr 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Not a classic but but worth doing if... Well, say you have already done everything else at the cliff but you find your self there and yer looking for a hard time. The flow of the route was surprisingly cool once I figured it out. A few of the holds are a bit uncomfortable but if you dig hard crimping you will like it.
In the book it mentions hard clips, the only tough clip would be the 3rd clip but once the draws are in place it wasn't too bad.
The 1st section is tricky and a bit hard, say V4, then you get a good rest (almost no hands). I climbed up and clipped bolt #3 then went back to rest. From here you will encounter hard crimping leading to an undeniable crux move (hence the name). I solved it with a dyno off of a razor crimp. That part is about about V7 in my opinion. It's easy to clip the 4th bolt here and figure your way over the lip to the slab above (the lip encounter could use a little scrubbing). Climb the slab past a pin and a bolt to end at the shared anchor with Lies and Propaganda.
This route was misnamed The Move in the latest guidebook.
Ps. the rock is funky, a little sharp but it was all solid... over and out.
In the book it mentions hard clips, the only tough clip would be the 3rd clip but once the draws are in place it wasn't too bad.
The 1st section is tricky and a bit hard, say V4, then you get a good rest (almost no hands). I climbed up and clipped bolt #3 then went back to rest. From here you will encounter hard crimping leading to an undeniable crux move (hence the name). I solved it with a dyno off of a razor crimp. That part is about about V7 in my opinion. It's easy to clip the 4th bolt here and figure your way over the lip to the slab above (the lip encounter could use a little scrubbing). Climb the slab past a pin and a bolt to end at the shared anchor with Lies and Propaganda.
This route was misnamed The Move in the latest guidebook.
Ps. the rock is funky, a little sharp but it was all solid... over and out.
6 Comments