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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Tim Kemple sr. 12-99
Page Views: 5,566 total, 43/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 23, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Wickedly-pumpy jug-hauling out the roof start, big moves and swollen forearms. This leads to a weird mantel into a little, pretty comfy nook capped with another roof move, but do not despair, this is the last hard move on the route. After mantling, follow the bolts up the 5.9 slab to the chains.

A really fun climb, though if power and reach are against you, it might be more challenging. I found it to be pretty easy when I was climbing and training in the gym a lot, but now that I've gone all techy it is tough. I did find a totally static way to do the crux so work it out to your personal strengths.

Location

Starting on the usually well-chalked holds on the right-hand side of the cave and traversing up and left along the roof.
The start may be wet from seepage.

Protection

8 bolts to anchor.
Graham O.  
 
Cool route, might be four stars if it didn't include that hip-grinding "rest" in the nook... Aug 24, 2016
Jackson Yip
San Jose, CA
 
Jackson Yip   San Jose, CA
 
my first outdoor 5.11c, will always be remembered and respected. Jan 21, 2016
Tyler Quesnel
Eliot
 
Tyler Quesnel   Eliot
 
Took the boulder problem that is the bottom for granted, wish I could have my flash/on-sight redo. Had to rush out so I couldn't bag the red-point, but I'll be back. Fun climb, and the top is not a gimme if you're pumped. Apr 28, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
I agree with Lee . . . WICKED PUMPY! Oct 26, 2014
This is my favorite flash so far. I think stick clipping the first two draws was a smart idea, because falling onto the rock would have hurt. You get a really good rest in that corner if you lay down... Aug 29, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
id love to get a better camera and get more in to videos... i shot this on a point and shoot job and id love to use a real video cam... Dec 15, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.11c
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.11c
Sorry. I didn't bother to expand the explanation of the video on Youtube until a few moments ago. Is this videography thing a new calling for you and future MP posts? (Might not be a bad idea...) Dec 14, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
glad you liked the video...

i explain the kneepad/kneebar in the video description saying something like i know you dont need it but i just love kneebars and i had a new pad my friends and i wanted to play with...

though you dont need it i found it made that first move much more relaxing and fun which is how i like to climb... Dec 11, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.11c
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.11c
Pretty cool video shot from a couple nice angles. I never thought a kneebar pad was an obligatory tactic for this route, though. Dec 10, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Check out this video of my friend Kevin flashing Cerial Killer...

youtube.com/watch?v=EJ87e_U… Dec 9, 2008
Ladd

  5.11c
Ladd    
  5.11c
I agree with Mark, I've seen someone dropped by their belayer right onto that rock! Aug 30, 2007
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
It is not a bad idea to preplace the first few draws if you have a stick clip. The stone on the ground is very close. An attentive belayer is a must. A very fun route requiring burl and balance Aug 15, 2007