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Routes in The Storm Boulders

Blaow V10 7C+
Blaow's Cousin V10 7C+
Brett's Mom V10- 7C+
Downward Spiral V8 7B
Evolution V6 7A
Four Eyed Blues V4 6B
Further Down The Spiral V8 7B
Glass Blower (aka Pygmies & Cornrolls) V7 7A+
Indiana jones V9- 7C
Innovator V8 7B
Monkey Crotch V4 6B
Monkey Press V3 6A
Mothra Stewart V7-8 7B
Mothra Stewart Left V8 7B
Mothra Stewart Variation V7 7A+
Mr. Natural V9-10 7C+
Pikachu V2-3 5+
Polish Terrorist V8 7B
Project V14 8B+ X
Revolution V10-11 8A
Ride the Lightning V6 7A
Squeeze Play V2 5+
Storm Pockets V3 6A
Storm Traverse V4 6B
Terrorist V6 7A
Terrorist Left V5-6 6C+
Tesa V9 7C R
Three Graces, The V6 7A
Up V6 7A
Vintage V4 6B
Warrior V3 6A
Wizard, The V6-7 7A+
Woodfords Reserve V2 5+
Zap V3+ 6A+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Rio Rose
Page Views: 324 total, 19/month
Shared By: Graham O. on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a never-done crimp problem that tackles the blunt prow directly below the topout of 'Pygmies and Cornrolls'. It's incredibly sharp and I highly recommend avoiding it unless you are desperate for a tick and even then I feel that you should think about it.

Sit start on a good RH sidepull and bad LH crimp. Bump your right to a sharp crimp, and decide how much you want the send. Do you want it so bad that you would be willing to lose enough skin/blood that you would be out for the day? If so, than continue onward! Jump for a good crimp, and keep an eye on your fingers as they start to throb and bleed. It'll feel like crimping a katana. Hit the slopey crack before jumping to the lip. Topout same as Pygmies and Cornrolls, and curse yourself for ever attempting this god-forsaken pile o' pain.

Location

The blunt prow directly below the topout of Glass Blower.

Protection

A few pads and a spotter who is capable of driving you to the hospital if you get arthritis.

Photos

Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8+
This thing is sharp and really hard. It took me about an hour and a half to link the moves together. I believe the beta I came up with is the best option and I think the grade will settle in at V8 if people climb it this way. I can't say I would recommend this climb at all but for those who dare the nightmares right there. youtube.com/watch?v=zIpWkHy… Oct 27, 2017
Graham O.  
 
Yeah, it's crazy sharp, the breakage didn't seem to affect it much in terms of difficulty/quality. Jul 23, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Yeah Graham, this line is pretty cool in the beginning, but unfortunately the hardest moves are to heinously sharp stuff that is also quite chossy. Also really hard.

Troy I was talking about the line that you and Aaron did after him and I did Glass Blower. Jul 23, 2016
Graham O.  
 
Great, thanks for the photo! I remember seeing that as pic for the Storm Boulders, but couldn't quite recognize the climb. I'll be up there on Sunday, so I'll definitely check it out. Jul 21, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8+
Hey guys here is a picture of the climb I found hidden in the files of Mountain Project. I agree with everything Graham said. This thing is extremely sharp and worthy of the bomb. Not sure what Jake was talking about. The Glass blower variation I did has the same start as this but climbs left into Glass Blower. Check it out next time your out there Graham! mountainproject.com/v/10694… Jul 20, 2016
Graham O.  
 
I didn't know that there's a left variation, Im glad to hear that that is better than the straight-up version. I'm talking about the line straight up the prow via insanely sharp crimps. I made the mistake of trying it once(before the breakage that you talked about) and thought it was about v6+ or v7-. I also didn't know it broke, thanks for the update. I hope that the breakage has made it better/less sharp. I assume that it hasn't been repeated since. I'll keep the current grade/rating until I go check it out, but maybe you should post that v8 variation; I'd love to hear about it! By the way, I called it 'The Wizard' because my friend Keith said he was told that that was the case. Jul 20, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Is this the line that starts on the little arete to the right of Glass Blower and then climbs up and left and meets up with glass blower for the big move to the lip? If so I'm pretty sure it was FA'd by Pete Ward, along with another variation that went from the prow and then up and right. My friends sent this line (that you are calling The Wizard) and it's actually not nearly as sharp as you are saying. It's also V8, not v6-7 and was actually worth doing once (so 1 or 2 stars), with a unique thumbdercling used to bump to a sidepull. The right variation is broken and now probably around v10 or something and much sharper. Jul 18, 2016