Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Rio Rose
Page Views: 588 total · 16/month
Shared By: Graham O. on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a never-done crimp problem that tackles the blunt prow directly below the topout of 'Pygmies and Cornrolls'. It's incredibly sharp and I highly recommend avoiding it unless you are desperate for a tick and even then I feel that you should think about it.

Sit start on a good RH sidepull and bad LH crimp. Bump your right to a sharp crimp, and decide how much you want the send. Do you want it so bad that you would be willing to lose enough skin/blood that you would be out for the day? If so, than continue onward! Jump for a good crimp, and keep an eye on your fingers as they start to throb and bleed. It'll feel like crimping a katana. Hit the slopey crack before jumping to the lip. Topout same as Pygmies and Cornrolls, and curse yourself for ever attempting this god-forsaken pile o' pain.

Location

The blunt prow directly below the topout of Glass Blower.

Protection

A few pads and a spotter who is capable of driving you to the hospital if you get arthritis.

Photos