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Routes in Apocalypse Walls

An Elephant Never Forgets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13
Apocalypse Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bad Seed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Captain Fingers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corporal Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Earth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kate's Arete S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Serenity Now S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Supreme Onion Sacrifice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
They Come and They Go T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Jerry Handren, 1987
Page Views: 1,521 total · 13/month
Shared By: James Otey on Feb 5, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Bad Seed was originally rated 5.12a, but due to some unplanned hold exfoliation, it is now considered to be 5.12d. Climb the crimpy face to a low crux- a big move off an undercling of questionable size. Finesse, slope and undercling your way up for a few more moves and punch it to the chains.

Holds break off this thing like the plague...the beta changes faster than a runway model. In any case, get the tendons working and have at it!

Location

Scramble up to the base of a dank looking gully to the right of Apocalypse Later. Of the two routes go up this face- Bad Seed goes left and Good Earth goes right.

Protection

4 Bolts

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i got on this thing by mistake before i learned to use a guide book... and man it was hard and the bolts are far apart so its tough to work it like a sport climber... i soon realized that Captain Fingers was further right and hooked it up...

i didnt really enjoy the moves so i never got back on it... maybe its broken enough that its a classic now... prolly not...

"changes faster than a super model" good one, snoogans... Feb 5, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
It is too bad this has fallen apart. It used to be a pretty good route, with interesting hard moves. It is an example of how Rumney routes need to be cleaned hard and heavy when first put up if they are going to have a chance to stand time, especially if using glue-ins, which are difficult to move. Dec 23, 2011
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.13a/b R
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.13a/b R
Anybody knows if this route is still climbable?
I went on it and man it was hard. I mean impossible.
Thanks! Jul 28, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
ive been meaning to rap in to it and see if it will still work... I think checking it from the top down will be the easiest way to see if its still a route... Jul 29, 2013
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.12d
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.12d
Did this one in March 2016 and can confirm it is still climbable. The moves are hard to figure out, but it felt like 12d to me. Seems like the holds that are present will be there for a while. It can be a bit painful at times, but the moves are quite fun. Also, if you want to feel a bit safer, do what I did and hang a 24-inch sling in the 3rd bolt and clip mid crux. Mar 24, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Great news Will! I was just thinking I would ask around if it had been done in recent memory.
I was also thinking of hanging a long draw off of the 3rd so thanks for confirming that as a good plan. Aug 5, 2016
Charles Lachance
Sherbrooke, QC
  5.13a PG13
Charles Lachance   Sherbrooke, QC
  5.13a PG13
The two bolts of the anchor are on a flake... It doesn't sound hollow. Anyone ever checked if it was solid?

Should probably be rated PG13. Fell at the crux, just before clipping the bolt and landed 3 feet above the ground (Belayer was light, but still...). Oct 10, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I got on this today to figure out the moves. I am at a loss as to how I could make it feel close to 5.12d... I typically do routes in this difficulty range in a few tries. I couldn't even get a couple of the moves individually on this one... The beta I was working with I feel would be in the 13c/d range. Seemed like solid 5.12 climbing with a V9 move in the middle. What magic am I missing here? I admit I was a little low energy today but dang... Beta please? Will? Jul 6, 2017
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.12d
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.12d
Lee, this line zig zags quite a bit. At the start of the crux, I kind of went out way left and remember using a bad under cling maybe with my right hand. Then up to a bad crimp that I could barely clip an extended sling off of. The hardest part was getting around the 3rd bolt. Felt like an easier and slightly more painful version of Dark Star. The holds are there, but I don't remember the beta too much. It felt 13a to me at first, but hard 12d when I sent it. I don't know if any of this helps.

I would strongly recommend stick clipping each section and figuring out the sequences on TR. Jul 10, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Thanks Will, That makes sense with my experience on it. Sounds like you did what I tried but with more success haha. I did have the little incut undercling in my right hand but had very little for my left and it was a big move to the next (shitty) crimp.

I was working it on self belay TR this time. Years ago I tried ground up and hit the shutdown moves at the same spot. I guess I need to get back to it on a good day... and get stronger haha. Jul 10, 2017
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.13a/b R
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.13a/b R
This thing is officially in the 5.13 range. Probably 13a/b. Anyone calling this 12d is a sandbagger. Just compare any other 12d you've done around and you won't find a match in terms of difficulties. Anyone convinced of 12d would have to provide me with a beta that I can execute. There are a few 12d's that I haven't sent but I never encountered sections that I can't execute. Jun 3, 2018
Eric Julien
Shawingan-Sud, Québec
  5.13a
Eric Julien   Shawingan-Sud, Québec
  5.13a
This route deserve more attention and more stars imo. One of my friend always says that to get 4 stars a route needs to be sandbagged, scary or have big runouts. This one got it all. Seriously, the crux is very interesting to solve and not more painful than its neighbour to the right. I worked the sequence by clipping the last bolt with a stick clip from the bolt below. On redpoint attempt i used an extended draw to be able to clip at the hip without pulling slack. That way I didn't feel the «R» factor. Sep 23, 2018
Fan Yang
Boston, MA
  5.12d
Fan Yang   Boston, MA
  5.12d
Crux move for me was a long reach from a small undercling, but it does not feel harder than 12d. I took the fall near the next bolt (4th if you count the first on good earth?) on my os try and it was totally safe. Not sure why some commented that it's R...too pampered by rumney bolting perhaps ;)

nice bouldery moves. Nov 5, 2018

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