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Routes in Apocalypse Walls

An Elephant Never Forgets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13
Apocalypse Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bad Seed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Captain Fingers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corporal Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Earth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kate's Arete S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Serenity Now S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Supreme Onion Sacrifice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
They Come and They Go T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, Aid, 40 ft
FA: Bradley White 2010
Page Views: 732 total, 8/month
Shared By: bradley white on Oct 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

I thought I should post this climb although it has not been technically led. I soloed it on a top rope with harness rope knots and an ascender. Complicated to explain, a climbing workout to get up on 2 top ropes. The tree became involved as an anchor and posture to make drilling easier. Anyway the bolts are close together except for the first one is way out of reach. You'll need to climb 'They Come and They Go' to clip the first bolt. Then go back to the ground to start up it wary all of the time a short pendulum towards the off width would hurt.
The rock is weak and not torquing it much will preserve the hand and foot holds lowest on the wall. After that scenario, rest or go up and pass over a small overlap. The overlap top is where the complexity of choices begins at the third bolt. The climb can be done left or right? At this bolt energy can be wasted away and I think it can be done both ways. It can be very difficult left or possibly not difficult right depending on how you approach it to what you do best. Hint, How would you approach an Elephant? Right on or take a left. The bolt is up and left. Going right, means going higher up than the bolt and not clipping it down left of you. Trad gear up in the off width higher than the second and third bolt is recommeneded. No room fors screw ups on this climb. Left is excellent rock and there's something of nothing to hold onto. Going up and left is not for me anymore, It looks radical and safer than going right. No way I can do the up and left way. I'll try to lead it right. I might get up the left side on a top rope?

Location

Left wall of green mossy off width corner. Furthest west in the area.

Protection

5 bolts and the bolts can be backed up with cams or hexs in the off width right of te climb. I'm so inclined to do so. The second bolt seemed to take more turns to tighten than the others did. I put the third bolt close to it. Eye bolts in the lower rock would strengthen the protection on this climb.

Photos

Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Damn Eli, you really weren't kidding about wanting to try all these obscure routes. May 11, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
This thing exfoliates rock - definitely avoid. May 11, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"Yes. Most of the rock is too soft at the beginning of the climb. Eye bolts should be placed instead. I haven't bolted the start and holds can stil be broken off while climbing the start. The orange rock is the hardest. Instead I start at the first bolt on 'They come and They go'. The second bolt didn't tighten immediately and that indicated rock internal disintigration. It might be okay for the distance covered to the third bolt. I'd back it up with a medium hex in the fissure of 'They come and they go' above this bolt. The rest of the bolts are fine becausae the rock returns to normal Rumney shist where the most difficult moves are. Climbers should be solid and comfortasble at leading at least (5.10). This climb is not for the casual sport climber. It still awaits a free acsent regardless to how a climber gets up it. It can be done by the daring to climb for it after the first bolt. It is totally safe skipping the beginning runout and using trad gear to back up the second bolt. It was anchored in my stle of protection(the hardest parts the anchors are close to each other and nothing on the easier sections). I've freed some of the upper half (5.8+ maybe 9) doing the right side instead of going left and briging with the right foot on the edge of the fissure to finish it. There is an excellent bucket hold up high. The left crux bolt becomes practically unreachable. Waste of energy to clip it. Going left from the third bolt is quite extreme and at this bolt probably the climb is in the (5.12) range for 12ft."

Comment by bradley white on May 23rd, 2011 4:31 pm Jul 20, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Bradley you seem to doubt the strength of the bolts? Should some be concerned before getting on it? Apr 5, 2011