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Routes in Apocalypse Walls

An Elephant Never Forgets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13
Apocalypse Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bad Seed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Captain Fingers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corporal Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Earth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kate's Arete S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Serenity Now S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Supreme Onion Sacrifice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
They Come and They Go T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 7/00
Page Views: 1,574 total, 12/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Serenity Now is a great route to get on when folks are waiting in line for the "classic" 5.7s at the Meadows. You can normally get on this route on a busy day, and I'd say it's one of the best routes of the grade close to the parking lot.

You start up the same slab as Apocalypse Later (5.11c), but head left around the corner into the wet gully. Without wetting your feet, climb up on to the right hand wall of the gully and follow the bolts to the quick clips. The crux is on the upper part of the climb and is done in a few different ways, all of which give you your money's worth for the grade. Kinda tricky.

When lowering, keep the rope moving because the rope tends to run over some kinda sharp rock.

Location

The right hand wall of the left gully.

Protection

4 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.8
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.8
Maybe it felt harder because I was on lead, but the last move felt very much 5.8 to me. May 14, 2012
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
 
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
 
You can avoid running the rope over sharp rock during lowering if you belay from as far up the trail as you can reach (to the left). Jan 2, 2011
BiRD
  5.7
BiRD  
  5.7
Easy, but nice route, little crux at the end :) Apr 16, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
This route is a lot of fun, and for a new climber it is a little heady, you may feel like if you fall you will swing out around the arete and then slam into it, but I assure you it is completely safe. Have fun. Dec 15, 2008