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Serenity Now

5.7, Sport,  Avg: 1.7 from 113 votes
FA: Chris Smith 7/00
New Hampshire > Rumney > Apocalypse Walls
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description

Serenity Now is a great route to get on when folks are waiting in line for the "classic" 5.7s at the Meadows. You can normally get on this route on a busy day, and I'd say it's one of the best routes of the grade close to the parking lot.

You start up the same slab as Apocalypse Later (5.11c), but head left around the corner into the wet gully. Without wetting your feet, climb up on to the right hand wall of the gully and follow the bolts to the quick clips. The crux is on the upper part of the climb and is done in a few different ways, all of which give you your money's worth for the grade. Kinda tricky.

When lowering, keep the rope moving because the rope tends to run over some kinda sharp rock. ( See comment on how to avoid this.) 

Location

The right hand wall of the left gully.

Protection

4 bolts to quick clips.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from the base, winter.
[Hide Photo] View from the base, winter.
Serenity Now
[Hide Photo] Serenity Now

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This route is a lot of fun, and for a new climber it is a little heady, you may feel like if you fall you will swing out around the arete and then slam into it, but I assure you it is completely safe. Have fun. Dec 15, 2008
BiRD
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Easy, but nice route, little crux at the end :) Apr 16, 2009
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
 
[Hide Comment] You can avoid running the rope over sharp rock during lowering if you belay from as far up the trail as you can reach (to the left). Jan 2, 2011
onX Sucks
onX sucks, USA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Maybe it felt harder because I was on lead, but the last move felt very much 5.8 to me. May 14, 2012
Nick Grant
Tamworth, NH
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Definitely not a good route for the beginning 5.7 leader. Jul 15, 2022
Jinshui A
[Hide Comment] Lowering: after picking up your 3rd draw, Clip a draw to connect yourself and your leader’s rope. That way you will not swing out causing your rope to rub the 2 pieces of sharp rock sticking out.

If your rope was cutting on those rocks while being lowered, DO NOT continue to lower as rocks will start sawing your rope. Get back on the wall, climb back on the back side (same side as anchor), that way it takes tension off. Then, flick your rope back to the same side as you. Attach quick draw to connect yourself and your belayer’s rope. Now lower without rope getting caught on the sharp rocks. . Sep 18, 2022