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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: FFA James Otey, 5/13/16 Equipped by Mike Robinson and Bradley White, 2012
Page Views: 996 total, 52/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on May 13, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Mesresha is a test of pure crimping prowess. It features generally small and sharp crimpers that trace a line up a bulging face, culminating with a brutal crank off a really small edge. Originally bolted in 2012 by Mike Robinson and Bradley White, this had to wait four years for a proper free ascent. Rumors of friable holds and unpleasant climbing kept many away from the route, and it gained a place in Rumney lore as an ill-conceived venture. Recently, however, the route was more thoroughly cleaned and to some surprise, this has turned out to be a pretty good route. It just goes to show that you shouldn't knock something until you try it.

To climb the route, amble up to the big ledge in the center of the crag and stare up at the bulging face. Climb up a bit and try to get the first three draws clipped. Go back to the ledge, rest, and warm up your fingers. Next, fire up the sustained crimp ladder to better holds above the 4th bolt and make a progressively easier romp to the anchors. In the crux, resist the urge to stem right to the less-steep rock over by Sesame Street.

Mike Robinson named this route after his son's middle name. According to Mike, "in the Ethiopian culture it means 'something which helps one forget the pain of one's life and/or past.'"

Location

Between Mitosis on the left and Sesame Street on the right.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
I was climbing this on Thursday (9/28). After working out the moves on top rope, I decided to start giving it some redpoint burns. On my first redpoint burn, the first right hand crimp that you use exploded off the wall as I was cranking a move off of it. Initially, I was going to lower down, but I figured I would see if there was another way to do that move. While that hold was completely gone, there was another hold above it that I was able to make work (though it was probably a half grade to full grade harder). So, I lowered and then gave it a redpoint burn. On this burn, this new hold also exploded off the wall. My stubbornness wouldn't let me completely write it off, so I looked for another sequence. After some time, I figured out another sequence. Guess what happened? I went for the redpoint burn, started cranking through a sequence and another hold broke on me! And no, I wasn't climbing on the chossy rock to the right. I was climbing on the 'good' rock. Perhaps I am too heavy at 158 lbs? :)

It appears to me that none of the holds on this route were reinforced. While I appreciate the purity of that ethic, most of the holds are going to break eventually as they are all thin incut crimp flakes. This climb probably still goes, but my guess is that it is several grades harder at least. But maybe my sequence was completely wrong and I missed the right beta. Who knows. I do know that every hold I used was already chalked. (Minus the new ones that I tried using after the initial break.)

Anyhow, just wanted to give everyone a heads up. I've included a picture of the various holds that broke on this route. Sep 30, 2017
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
The sleeve bolts in this climb are not suited for repetitive falling onto them and will fatigue. Sleeve bolts are removable with the proper tool and eye bolts can be put in their place. Nov 3, 2016
MattH  
Forgot to mention - while the belay from the ledge is an appealing option, there's a little colony of ground-nesting bees in the dirt to the right of the tree stump (the natural belay spot). They seemed friendly but it's probably best not to disturb them. May 22, 2016
MattH  
Went out and tried this a little yesterday (no send). Definitely meander over to the mitosis anchors at the top - the anchors on this were just two bolt hangers when I tried it so there's now a lone biner at the anchors. You're not missing much by skipping the last bit of 5.10, and you can probably also avoid some of the rope drag through the bush/sapling.

The rock quality in the crux is solid (though there's still plenty of vegitation in the first holds on the bulge that you move left onto). After the 4th, once the difficulties ease up, the rock is definitely still quite loose and holds will likely keep breaking for some time (until the "right" holds get chalked up at least). Definitely a worthwhile addition! Kind of like a distilled version of the other crimpy Rumney 13's. May 22, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
When I got on it at least, it was basically like dynoing between upright razor blades. May 17, 2016
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
If you're interested in reading the history of this route, check it out here: mountainproject.com/v/mesre… May 13, 2016
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
Great to see this finally got sent! Well done James! May 13, 2016