MP > Comments
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Nov 16, 2018
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Brilliant route. A #4 could help protect the second pitch.
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Dec 1, 2017
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armchair aid-climbing here, but it looks like there is a brass nut placement in the back of the pod, a camh…
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Jul 10, 2017
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best climb i've done in the tahoe area. gear-- green aliens to #3; extra purple 0.5s if you do the…
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Jun 12, 2017
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i thought this climb was more fun and interesting than raw hide... wish it was longer
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Jun 12, 2017
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bolts are in stupid locations, but otherwise a fun climb
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Jun 12, 2017
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The approach beta photo mentioned in the above comment by SWGuillemot is correct-- note that there is anoth…
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Jun 1, 2017
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quite fun, wish it was longer. the flake is solid and the gear is good, i don't know what people are ta…
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Jun 1, 2017
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route decreases in difficulty dramatically after the first bolt. not a super good route...
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Jun 1, 2017
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was fun, but a bit contrived-- you take the line of most resistance to the second bolt, and then you escape…
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Apr 5, 2017
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not sure why a comment says that it "needs traffic"-- when we did it was quite clean. An unus…
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Apr 5, 2017
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Additional info for getting to the killer pillar-- the comments are correct for how to get from the parking…
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Apr 5, 2017
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Fantastic movement and great fun. Ignore the reid guide-- no #2 friend is needed-- I think a bolt has been…
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Apr 5, 2017
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Very long pitch and very sustained. Has got to be the hardest 10d I've ever tried. 4-5 purple c4 size n…
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Apr 5, 2017
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An unusual climb by yosemite climbing standards-- lots of positive feet and handholds to use. More bolt…
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Feb 7, 2017
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Overall the climb felt pretty average-- nothing spectacular. Shortness of the pitches detracts from the cli…
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Feb 7, 2017
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pretty fun climb, though a bit sandy. Feels almost like a yosemite climb-- lots of chimney/arm-bar on this…
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Feb 7, 2017
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incredibly fun face-climbing route. all glue-in bolts except for one drilled angle. The bolt positions seem…
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Dec 29, 2016
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a fun route-- lots of ninja stemming. It's nice to climb a route that isn't polished to death.
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Dec 4, 2016
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great climb. the fixed gear mentioned in the post above is gone.
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Nov 27, 2016
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very short, feels more like 5.9 Definitely not worth the hike if this is the only climb you had in mind.
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Nov 27, 2016
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really fun climbing above the bolt! an under-rated climb IMO
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Aug 16, 2016
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Fantastic route that I feel is diminished by the embarrassing number of pitons on this route.... I've n…
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Jul 7, 2016
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honestly, an awful climb with only one redeeming pitch. One can blame supertopo for making this route popul…
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Jul 7, 2016
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For those worried about protecting the bottom of the first pitch, totem cams work really well in the large…
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Sep 21, 2015
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fantastic sport climb. Crux felt harder than 11a...ended up doing some difficult compression moves
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Sep 21, 2015
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amazing climb in an amazing location. well deserved of its classic status. There are many pitches that felt…
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Aug 25, 2015
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unfathomably long route. a couple comments 1) i found this beta is pretty good: zacwest.net/topos/Evo…
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Aug 17, 2015
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recommended rack: nuts, blue alien, doubles green alien to #2 camalot; single #3 camalot, #6 camalot. R…
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Aug 16, 2015
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amazing route. Much better to finish on gram than to do the final pitch of oz. Gear beta-- doubles gree…
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Aug 16, 2015
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Awesome route. Second pitch of gram felt very casual and non-physical (10a?) compared to the first. No…
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Aug 10, 2015
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Note on driving directions: turn onto crocker st in the town of big pine (crocker street turns into glacier…
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Jul 6, 2015
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WARNING- rockfall has caused large changes to the route after the Robbins traverse. see supertopo.c…
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Jun 29, 2015
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great climb -- probably best described as 5.9 V2...
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Jun 29, 2015
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Mellow and secure knob-pulling on run out. P1- ~60M. 2 bolts and gear to a bolted belay. The first bolt…
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Jun 22, 2015
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favorite route at daff dome-- it still amazes me how little traffic it gets compared to West crack...
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Jun 22, 2015
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after reading all the comments, I was a bit disappointed-- definitely not a classic. I would agree that thi…
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