Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Gene Drake, Rex Spaith, 1971
Page Views: 29,601 total · 156/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

1. Climb the groove 5.2, into a 4th class ramp, follow this and then some dirty climbing up on a large ledge and build an anchor in the thin finger crack in the middle of the ledge.

2. Climb directly up above the belay until a delicate rising right traverse (no pro) allows a good crack to be gained. Follow this, until you can scramble under a tree onto a ledge and belay.

3. Follow the ledge left and then climb good cracks up to a hanging bolt belay. This is the first of 3 good pitches. (Note: On a crowded day, link pitches 3+4 and build your own anchors to let descending parties pass safely.)

4. Continue up the crack system until an obvious step right can be made where the cracks continue up to the belay.

5. This last pitch is a good one. This climb saves it very best to the very last few moves. Climb up until a nice finger crack allows progress up and onto the belay.

Descent is via Rappel with a 70m Rope:

1. P5 anchors -> P4 anchors

2. P4 anchors -> P3 anchors

3. P3 anchors -> Slung tree (15 feet left and 20 feet below the huge belay ledge)

4. Slung tree -> Intermediate bolts ~50 feet off the deck (If you have an 80m, this will get you to the ground)

5 Bolts -> Dirt.

Location

Located on the left hand side of the Royal Arches Area. 200' up and left from Serenity Crack.

Protection

standard Trad rack 1-2 sets nuts, 1-2 sets cams.

Photos