Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Gene Drake, Rex Spaith, 1971
Page Views: 23,791 total · 145/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

1. Climb the groove 5.2, into a 4th class ramp, follow this and then some dirty climbing up on a large ledge and build an anchor in the thin finger crack in the middle of the ledge.

2. Climb directly up above the belay until a delicate rising right traverse (no pro) allows a good crack to be gained. Follow this, until you can scramble under a tree onto a ledge and belay.

3. Follow the ledge left and then climb good cracks up to a hanging bolt belay. This is the first of 3 good pitches.

4. Continue up the crack system until an obvious step right can be made where the cracks continue up to the belay.

5. This last pitch is a good one. This climb saves it very best to the very last few moves. Climb up until a nice finger crack allows progress up and onto the belay.

Descent is via Rappel. Rappel to the 3rd belay. From there Rappel to a tree with a rappel slings, and from there to the bottom. These rappels need double ropes.

Location

Located on the left hand side of the Royal Arches Area. 200' up and left from Serenity Crack.

Protection

standard Trad rack 1-2 sets nuts, 1-2 sets cams.

Photos