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Routes in West Face
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40 Knobs to Freedom T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bearded Clam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Bart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Over Tokyo (Full) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cowabunga T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crotch Rocket Joy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunny Side Down T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wienie Roast T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Layton Kor, Fred Beckey, 6/65. FFA: Bob Kamps, TM Herbert, 1960s. |
| Page Views: | 24,443 total · 122/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Sep 16, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route follows the obvious right-curving corner which lies in the center of the West Face.
P1: easy 5th to a big ledge below a bulge that pulls into a short squeeze chimney. Belay at the ledge, not at the fixed pins 12 feet up recommended by supertopo.
P2: go up the squeeze at .7, clip the pins with a long runner, traverse out the roof into the slick corner. Awkward fingers and hip scumming up, then out another roof. 100', lots of sustained .9.
P3: off the ledge with the hangarless bolt, up and out the roof, then up another slick corner with very awkward hands. Up to a huge ledge. sustained awkward .9, 60 feet.
I combined 2 and 3 no problem with a 60m rope and a double cam rack with a single #3. ledge is huge and comfy.
P4: guidebook crux. mostly .7 and .8 slab. Hard part is getting gear in the seam on the corner/roof. It's there, but it's thin and placing it can be strenuous. The crux move felt like .10a slab, and is well protected on both sides. Then fun knob climbing past a pin to the belay.
P5: easy 5th to the top.
Descent: follow cairns to the east side of the dome. Big ledge with a tree. Chains on top of a huge block. 2 raps with a 60m to the ground. maybe 1 rap with a 70?
Agreed that the sustained .9 is harder than the single crux move.
P1: easy 5th to a big ledge below a bulge that pulls into a short squeeze chimney. Belay at the ledge, not at the fixed pins 12 feet up recommended by supertopo.
P2: go up the squeeze at .7, clip the pins with a long runner, traverse out the roof into the slick corner. Awkward fingers and hip scumming up, then out another roof. 100', lots of sustained .9.
P3: off the ledge with the hangarless bolt, up and out the roof, then up another slick corner with very awkward hands. Up to a huge ledge. sustained awkward .9, 60 feet.
I combined 2 and 3 no problem with a 60m rope and a double cam rack with a single #3. ledge is huge and comfy.
P4: guidebook crux. mostly .7 and .8 slab. Hard part is getting gear in the seam on the corner/roof. It's there, but it's thin and placing it can be strenuous. The crux move felt like .10a slab, and is well protected on both sides. Then fun knob climbing past a pin to the belay.
P5: easy 5th to the top.
Descent: follow cairns to the east side of the dome. Big ledge with a tree. Chains on top of a huge block. 2 raps with a 60m to the ground. maybe 1 rap with a 70?
Agreed that the sustained .9 is harder than the single crux move.
36 Comments