Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Layton Kor, Fred Beckey, 6/65. FFA: Bob Kamps, TM Herbert, 1960s.
Page Views: 24,443 total · 122/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Sep 16, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route follows the obvious right-curving corner which lies in the center of the West Face.

P1: easy 5th to a big ledge below a bulge that pulls into a short squeeze chimney. Belay at the ledge, not at the fixed pins 12 feet up recommended by supertopo.

P2: go up the squeeze at .7, clip the pins with a long runner, traverse out the roof into the slick corner. Awkward fingers and hip scumming up, then out another roof. 100', lots of sustained .9.

P3: off the ledge with the hangarless bolt, up and out the roof, then up another slick corner with very awkward hands. Up to a huge ledge. sustained awkward .9, 60 feet.

I combined 2 and 3 no problem with a 60m rope and a double cam rack with a single #3. ledge is huge and comfy.

P4: guidebook crux. mostly .7 and .8 slab. Hard part is getting gear in the seam on the corner/roof. It's there, but it's thin and placing it can be strenuous. The crux move felt like .10a slab, and is well protected on both sides. Then fun knob climbing past a pin to the belay.

P5: easy 5th to the top.

Descent: follow cairns to the east side of the dome. Big ledge with a tree. Chains on top of a huge block. 2 raps with a 60m to the ground. maybe 1 rap with a 70?

Agreed that the sustained .9 is harder than the single crux move.


A selection of cams and stoppers.