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Routes in Daff Dome West Face

Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 6 pitches
FA: Laton Kor, Fred Beckey, 6/65. FFA: Bob Kamps, TM Herbert, 1960s.
Page Views: 16,987 total, 125/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route follows the obvious right-curving corner which lies in the center of the West Face.

P1: easy 5th to a big ledge below a bulge that pulls into a short squeeze chimney. Belay at the ledge, not at the fixed pins 12 feet up recommended by supertopo.

P2: go up the squeeze at .7, clip the pins with a long runner, traverse out the roof into the slick corner. Awkward fingers and hip scumming up, then out another roof. 100', lots of sustained .9.

P3: off the ledge with the hangarless bolt, up and out the roof, then up another slick corner with very awkward hands. Up to a huge ledge. sustained awkward .9, 60 feet.

I combined 2 and 3 no problem with a 60m rope and a double cam rack with a single #3. ledge is huge and comfy.

P4: guidebook crux. mostly .7 and .8 slab. Hard part is getting gear in the seam on the corner/roof. It's there, but it's thin and placing it can be strenuous. The crux move felt like .10a slab, and is well protected on both sides. Then fun knob climbing past a pin to the belay.

P5: easy 5th to the top.

Descent: follow cairns to the east side of the dome. Big ledge with a tree. Chains on top of a huge block. 2 raps with a 60m to the ground. maybe 1 rap with a 70?

Agreed that the sustained .9 is harder than the single crux move.

Protection

A selection of cams and stoppers.
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
5.9+
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
5.9+
recommend dbl set to #3, nuts, 70M does get you off East side in 1 rap- not sure there is a second anchor to rap again with shorter rope. Although I've done the walk off several times before- I do not recommend it. Oct 29, 2017
Brianna Chrisman 1
Mountain View
  5.10a PG13
Brianna Chrisman 1   Mountain View
  5.10a PG13
To whoever bootied a green BD camalot from the bottom of Crescent Arch on 8/26, INSPECT that baby because it fell 500 ft from my shaky shaky hands in the middle of P4 Aug 28, 2017
Mike Mellenthin
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Mike Mellenthin   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
This is considerably harder than West Crack no doubt. It's also definitively 5.9 in my opinion. West Crack has a single 5.9 move that arguably isn't. Basically every move on Crescent Arch is physical 5.9...but no harder.

I also thought Lucky Streaks was considerably harder for what it's worth.

The step across move they call 10b at the top is...not.

One of my favorites in TM regardless of grade though! Jul 25, 2016
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Just a fantastic, engaging route up a line which looks really epic from the highway when you glance at DAFF dome heading into The Meadows.

There is a LOT of slickness to the feet which adds at least a letter grade in an of itself (probably more from water seepage over the years versus a ton of traffic), and the climbing is really in your face almost all the way from P2 to the top. The gear options are plentiful but rarely "plug and go" - you definitely have to choose many times whether to let the calf burn settle in as you fiddle for a quality placement, or plug in an ok placement and climb through.

The specific angle of the corner relative to the open face dictates a particular type of movement which keeps you off-balance, switching often between liebacking and stemming to avoid barn-dooring. Agree with the other comments that the crux is definitely the sustained off-balance moves verses the 10c crux on P4.

Careful to follow the P4 corner *all the way* through to where it turns horizontal and tapers out before a short roof move gets you onto the final knobby slab. Before the traverse crux on that pitch, you'll encounter what looks like an escape up-and-left over a small roof, but that's NOT the line. Additionally, you'll want to manage your drag well with slings or back-cleaning on this pitch. Jul 14, 2016
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10b/c PG13
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10b/c PG13
I did this with Ben (above comment), he lead and I lead 20 ft after him using majority of his gear and adding some of mind. I did West crack to the left a year ago and felt that was way way easier compared to this route. If West Crack is 5.9 this is no way 5.9+ or 10a from what people suggest Jul 7, 2016
Benjamin Quinones
  5.10a/b
Benjamin Quinones  
  5.10a/b
So...I've led Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome and just led Crescent Arch on Daff Dome and I feel like the ratings should be switched. LS = 10c/d and CA = 10a, but when I did them (and by that I mean led every pitch) I felt LS was 10a and CA was 10c/d by comparison. Anyone else who has led every pitch on each route want to weigh in? Jul 5, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Laton Kor?? Any relation to LAYTON KOR? Jun 13, 2016
Anouk Erni
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Anouk Erni   Portland, OR
  5.10a
Sustained .9 on pitches 2-3 wasn't as bad as I was anticipating. Great protection throughout the route, except rounding the last roof on pitch 4 before the "crux". I actually considered this last roof/corner section on pitch 4 to be more awkward than the pitches 2-3, especially on lead. The .10b move at the top is no big deal and very well protected. One of my favorite climbs in Tuolumne! Sep 8, 2015
kmyee
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10-
kmyee   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10-
Fantastic. Walked up to this climb with no one on the route on a Friday morning with at least 4 parties in line for West Crack.

Beta here is pretty spot on. The guidebook "10b" crux move felt like one of the easier moves on that particular pitch. The crux for me was the 1st sustained awkward 5.9 corner. Be mindful of good foot placements out right (they appear every once in a while) and you'll cruise it. We brought a #4 C4 and didn't need it. Multiples of small cams and nuts are definitely useful for the 4th pitch. Aug 20, 2015
Daniel.climbs
Oakland, CA
5.10a/b PG13
Daniel.climbs   Oakland, CA
5.10a/b PG13
Climbed this route on June 13, 2015. Light wet streaks were visible from the ground on the traversing p4 arch. Crux was was staying pasted to the rock with wet gear placements while wet smearing. For added adventure, climb this route while it weeps, you might too! Jul 6, 2015
mpech  
favorite route at daff dome-- it still amazes me how little traffic it gets compared to West crack... Jun 22, 2015
revans90  
 
^^^
Glad we weren't the only party to have gone straight up out of the arch...we left the arch early before the "crux". Grab a jug pull up onto knob face and edge your way up wondering where the f* your next placement is going to be. Small gear(black alien) in a thin crack to your left, then dance over to the exit moves(v1/2). sporty.

best route on DAFF dome. edges abound and smears galore make things easier, and jamming instead of laybacking. underclings made easier with good feet. Jun 20, 2015
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
Aight, Awesome climb and we enjoyed it a lot more than west crack. Awesome enduro 5.9 climbing. All the beta on here is legit I just wanna add on something stupid that me and my friend did that you should not do. On the pitch where you traverse under the largest roof on the climb and come out near the summit (I guess pitch 4.) make sure you continue traversing right until easier ground. My buddy went straight up following mungy SKETCHY slab. and it was no fun no fun. Continue going right once you get to the highest roof on the climb until you get to easier ground. Makes it way mellower. Yall probably already know. Aug 6, 2014
Phil Esra  
 
The route description and most of the comments here are spot on.

Belay at the ledges near the end of p1 and p2, not at the higher pins.

Bring extra tiny cams for p4. I brought a single #3 and didn't use it much--I would leave it behind next time.

The "10b" move is a joke--if it feels harder than the rest of p4 [which feels plenty hard] you are doing it wrong. p4 roof was wet but doable on 7/7/13.

Left side in is much less awkward for p2 (vs Supertopo right side in recommendation).

A 70m rope rap gets you to a giant boulder with maybe 2 meters to spare (be careful to line up with the boulder when you go over the lip--the last 15 feet are free hanging and you can't move laterally). From there it's an easy 15-foot scramble to the slab.

GREAT climb. Jul 8, 2013
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Pitch 1 - some 5.7 laybacking. Belay at the large comfy ledge not the hanging belay at the pins. That suggestion is just plain stupid.

Pitch 2 - the first move looks intimidating but was actually not that bad. You can kinda chimney up the overhanging arch until you round the corner. Again that part looks intimidating but is really not that bad. Up sustained 5.9 laybacking (or you can do it with straight in jamming) but with good gear all the way. Again belay at the obvious ledge.

Pitch 3 - more sustained laybacking (or jamming) with good gear to another nice big ledge.

Pitch 4 - lots of underclinging with smearing to hold your feet on. Use micro cams for the last section. Don't traverse too far right before going up the knobs or it will be harder than 5.8 and slightly run out. You can unrope at the end of pitch 4 and go up the easy ramp system to the left and up an easy crack to the summit.

The pitches are all sustained but not too bad. Just don't start out tired. Jul 3, 2013
BrianWS
  5.10-
BrianWS  
  5.10-
Heady, especially if your polished slab technique isn't up to par. The crux had strenuous placements, and seemed more intimidating than difficult. Jan 28, 2013
Dave Alden
Seattle, WA
  5.10a PG13
Dave Alden   Seattle, WA
  5.10a PG13
Fantastic route! The guidebook is wrong by calling P4 the crux, it's actually on P2 but with good protection the whole way. Did the route in 6 pitches, but you can scramble up the last one to make it a 5 pitch route. Great exposure the whole way, lotsa fun. Feb 28, 2011
Sasquach Broom
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Sasquach Broom   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Definitely the best route on DAFF dome. Especially when people are waiting in line to do West Crack and no one's Crescent!! Aug 16, 2010
trying hard
Sierra East Side
  5.9+ PG13
trying hard   Sierra East Side
  5.9+ PG13
The 5.8 and 5.9 lie backs were way harder than the supposedly 10B arch pitch. The arch was a breeze after the lower climbing. Slick feet, great position, beautiful arch, epic finish on Daff, doesn't get much better. I would want to be a solid 5.9 leader before tackling. Aug 6, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10-
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10-
Super enduro! I would recommend climbers to be solid at 5.10 before leading this stuff (at least--you might enjoy it more!). Everything from the so-called 5.7 sections to the 5.9 sections seemed stout for their grades. Supertopo and Falcon occasionally have one letter grade difference wrt ratings on specific sections of this route, and at times I disagreed with them all! Some sections felt harder or easier than rated in the topos.

Other pro notes: we carried a #4 and placed it twice on lead + used it in a belay anchor once. One set of small wires is good enough; a set of microcams will be more useful and easier to place and clean imo. Jul 22, 2010
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
  5.10a
I agree with TylerW the 10b move felt easy, the crux is probably one of the enduro lower pitches or the gear placements on the fourth pitch. We belayed on the outside of the first roof just past the piton belay, then belayed at the ledges for pitch 2 and 3. The fourth belay was set just after the 10b move so there was no rope drag for the 5.8 face above. Then the fifth pitch went up the 5.8 face and 5.5 slab to the top. Micro cams were helpful. Enjoy. Jul 20, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
The crux is definitely the awkward corner. The "10b" move felt like one of the easier moves on the climb. On a dome of great routes this is one of my favorites. Feb 11, 2010
Craig Randleman
Phoenix, AZ
 
Craig Randleman   Phoenix, AZ
 
"i was seething fear" that's f'in' awesome! just awesome!!! Jan 1, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.9+
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.9+
Belay at the ledges as suggested in this description- the first time I did it years back, I rigged an aweful hanging belay under a roof. Rating of 9+ is acurate. I don't think that a single 70m will reach the ground from the top chains (haven't tested it though). Climbing is awkward but fun. No #4 needed. Oct 17, 2009
Pat C
Honolulu
Pat C   Honolulu
My first tuolumne climb. I was seething fear. Jul 16, 2009
This is a HARD 5.9, long and sustained. The feet look (?) ok but don't feel it. Getting out of the chimney was taxing. The nice thing is you can put in enough gear. I continually thought I would run out of options but a standard rack seemed to work out fine. Thank god I convinced my partner to do the final roof thing move...I took a hanging belay in the corner before the traverse out right.

  • my palms are sweating onto the keyboard thinking about this route*
Jun 12, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10a/b
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10a/b
P1: easy 5th to a big ledge below a bulge that pulls into a short squeeze chimney. Belay at the ledge, not at the fixed pins 12 feet up recommended by supertopo.

P2: go up the squeeze at .7, clip the pins with a long runner, traverse out the roof into the slick corner. Awkward fingers and hip scumming up, then out another roof. 100', lots of sustained .9.

P3: off the ledge with the hangarless bolt, up and out the roof, then up another slick corner with very awkward hands. Up to a huge ledge. sustained awkward .9, 60 feet.

I combined 2 and 3 no problem with a 60m rope and a double cam rack with a single #3. ledge is huge and comfy.

p4: guidebook crux. mostly .7 and .8 slab. Hard part is getting gear in the seam on the corner/roof. It's there, but it's thin and placing it can be strenuous. The crux move felt like .10a slab, and is well protected on both sides. Then fun knob climbing past a pin to the belay.

p5: easy 5th to the top.

Descent: follow cairns to the east side of the dome. Big ledge with a tree. Chains on top of a huge block. 2 raps with a 60m to the ground. maybe 1 rap with a 70?

Agreed that the sustained .9 is harder than the single crux move. Sep 12, 2008
Ol Toby
CA
  5.9+
Ol Toby   CA
  5.9+
One of my favorite cragging routes. Aesthetic, sustained, and a little burly. Aug 31, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10a
Agreed, Mike. I didn't find the move on pitch four to be 5.10b. Seemed easier and it was, indeed, well-protected. The sustained laybacking at 5.9 on the whole route really is the crux of this route. It's fabulous.
Near the top of the second pitch is a great belay ledge about 20 below the fixed pins and "recommended" belay. If I did this route again, I'd take two BD #3s for the belay on that fine ledge rather than continuing up to that miserable hanging belay on two crappy-looking pitons and gear. I'd highly recommend the same thing for anyone else. I hated that belay stance! Oct 1, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.9+
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.9+
Crescent Arch is fantastic! The Supertopo guide bumps up the rating to 5.10b to reflect a single, well-protected move on the 4th pitch. Both my partner and I felt that the real crux of the route is the sustained 5.9 climbing throughout, rather than any single move.

As for rack, bring lots of wires. We carried a #4 camalot and never placed it. Jun 29, 2007