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Routes in Daff Dome West Face

Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Grant Hiskes, Errett Allen 1987
Page Views: 343 total, 8/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Surrounded by classics, this route sees few ascents. Of similiar quality, but more serious and sustained than Fingertips around the corner, some may feel it lacks an aesthetic line of ascent but it would be a classic at lesser climbing áreas.

P1: Climb easy slab up and over a long roof left of the start of El Condor, following a prominent wáter streak to the El Condor pitch 1 belay ledge. (5.7 ~100 feet)

P2: Make an easy traverse left to a low bolt below another long roof. Slab up and right to the roof 5.8 with finger size crack in it. Undercling left to the ápex and start face climbing up big knobs up and left to the second bolt, about 25' above the roof in a gold patch (5.8 R/X). Continue up with sustained moderately run-out 5.9+ climbing drifting slighly left then back right on edges and small knobs past 4 more hard to see bolts, the last bolt is just before the belay at the horizontal where polished rock forces a traverse up and right. Gear belay 1/2"-2" cams. (5.10a ~130 feet)

P3: Make a 5.8 move to face climb a short ways up a light colored patch of rock that forms the right side of a shallow depression. Make an improbable traverse right to easier slab climbing and then head for a low angle dihedral with large stacked blocks. No protection on this pitch. (5.8R ~60 feet).

4th class to the top about 100 feet.

Tick it off your list.

Location

West face of Daff Dome on the far right (south) end, just left of El Condor.

Protection

This route has a dangerous 5.8 run-out to the second bolt and a little run-out 5.9 just before the third bolt. Pitch 3 has no pro and tricky route finding before reaching easy climbing. The seven protection bolts are good, but not modern and they are really hard to see from below. Bring four or five cams in finger to 2" size for the P2 roof and belays plus draws and slings.

Photos

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