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Routes in Daff Dome West Face

Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Wayne Merry, Dick Dorworth 1971
Page Views: 1,765 total, 44/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

El Condor is a beautiful moderate climb that links large knobs, cracks and pockets up a wonderful dark wáter streak. Stellar climbing and position - spaced but excellent gear.

With large positive holds, an experienced and confident 5.7-5.8 leader should be able to keep it together through the more exciting stretches.

P1: Head up easy slab heading for a low angle right facing corner/flake with finger size gear. Lieback up this and then move left to another right facing lieback and arrive at a nice belay ledge with fingers to hand size gear belay. (5.5 ~100 feet)

P2: Straight up to the right side of a long roof, traverse left along the roof with finger size cams along the top edge, mantle and climb up good knobs along the right side of the dark wáter streak. Reach a bolt and head left and up across the wáter streak, up knobs to a committing move to the bottom of the right facing thin flake and finger to hand size cams to the top of the flake. Traverse up and left to a giant knob (feldspar mega-cryst) that can be slung with a slip knotted long sling. Traverse right and up back across the wáter streak runnout to a bolt. Traverse right to a bolted belay. (5.7R ~130 feet)

P3: Head straight up smaller positive knobs to a horizontal 1/2"-1" cams, continue up fantastic pockets and knobs to lower angle climbing and find a gear belay, 5.7.

Wander to the top or head up and right for the standard 3rd class walk off.

Smile a bunch and take pictures of Fairview.

Location

Far right (south) end of Daff Dome's beautiful west face, look for a beautiful dark wáter streak passing through the outline of a Condor.

Protection

A light rack of single cams to 3", stoppers, a few médium metolius TCU's (yellow/orange/red) for pockets, long sling for knob tie-off. New ASCA bolts.

Photos

Good route. It goes quick. Some good runouts on great knobs. don't need a 3 unless you use it to weight the slung knob. ;) Sep 1, 2015