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Routes in Daff Dome West Face

Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,875 total · 16/month
Shared By: Greg DeMatteo on Apr 7, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A challenging route with a short, obvious crux getting out of the dihedral.

Location

Technically below the main face of DAFF on what could be considered the "foot" of the dome.

Protection

Standard single set of cams with stoppers should be fine. Crux is protected by a bolt.

Photos

B-Slim
San Jose
  5.11a
B-Slim   San Jose
  5.11a
Totaly agree with the previous comment, this route is fantastic, it has though and short balancy crux, it was fun and exciting to figure out the beta. Needs more traffic to clean the molds/fungus... Recommend to have small nuts and doubles of .3 to .5 (BD sizes) in order to protect the first part till you clip the spinning bolt. To lower or rap from the anchor you need a 70m rope, with 60m you might (NOT SURE) make it to the heights ledge then you got to down climb some very easy stuff. Sep 11, 2017
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
This climb is amazing. If it was in Super Taco it would get 10x the traffic. It is located on the right hand side on the standard approach to the West Crack area. It is easy to locate the route when walking to the west crack area by looking for the obvious dihedral and shiny chains of Cowabunga, the stout .12c immediately to the right of Bearded Clam. This is visible from the standard approach to the West Crack area.

The crux (only section of 11, ~2 moves) is well protected by a good bolt, so get on this thing. The rest of the route is 5.10 at hardest. The bolt is just left of the dihedral and can be tough to spot from the ground. A 70m is recommended for TRing if you are into that. It is also possible to set the TR from the top then rap down. Be sure to clip the bolt on the way down for a directional if you do this. Note there are not currently rap rings on the two bolts up top so bring your lockers. Until someone puts some rings up there you have to walk up and around (~5 mins) when you are done climbing this thing to retrieve your lockers. Jul 1, 2013

More About Bearded Clam

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