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40 Knobs to Freedom
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.8 from 11
votes
Routes in West Face
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40 Knobs to Freedom T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Bart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Over Tokyo (Full) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cowabunga T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crotch Rocket Joy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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New Era S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pirates Code, The T 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunny Side Down T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wienie Roast T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 37.8795, -119.41345 |
| FA: | 7/2020 KC Ellingford, Nick Malik |
| Page Views: | 1,628 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Kc Ellingford on Jun 22, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
40 Knobs to Freedom (5.10b/c) PG-13
Get psyched to pull on 40 golden knobs on the 3rd pitch! This route is the direct start and finish to a old school route that Ron Kauk established in the 70s or 80’s (Black Bart, 5.10b). With Kauk’s blessing we put up a direct 1st and 3rd pitch.
Pitch 1-(5.10b) starts 10ft right of the ledge used to gain access to West Crack. 3 bolts above a little alcove marks the start. Go right/up at 3rd bolt to a diagonal rail (.75 placement) then follow to easier climbing to next bolt. Head up the slab to the triple cracks. Belay 15ft below roof on gear anchor. (40M) PG-13
Pitch 2- (5.10b steep!) follow the crack and traverse right to gain a left traversing jug rail. (Grainy rock). Go through wild roofs (5.10) into a dihedral marked by a pin near the bottom and follow the dihedral to a fixed nut. Go left after the fixed nut to a knobby/crimpy face. Climb to an awesome ledge with a bolted anchor. Manage rope properly, rope drag can be heinous! (30M) PG-13
Pitch 3-(5.10a) 40 knobs to freedom pitch! Follow up the line of bolts on awesome knobs! Midway through traverse go right to follow bolts to pins ends at bolted anchor. (50m, 9 bolts and 2 Pins) Throw on some Sublime on this pitch.
Pitch 4-(5.7) escape left into West Crack.(50m)
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