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Routes in Daff Dome West Face

Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins, TM Herbert 1970
Page Views: 495 total, 12/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A good route to get scared on. Mostly excellent, run-out climbing on large knobs with some wandering on the upper half.

"The Gray Ghost was my hero... and he still is." — Bruce Wayne

P1: From a large ledge with Pines, head up and right on easy slabs 40 feet to a ledge (belay here if you have a rope less than 70m), work up easy climbing with knobs near a small right facing corner and a thin seam crack. Up the giant knobs above to a bolt just below a prominent horizontal dike. Make some steeper moves 5.8 to lower angle 5.6-5.7 run-out terrain with more great knobs. Drift slightly left to gain a series of horizontals and pockets with gear.

Above the line is less obvious, steepens and good knobs get harder to find. Follow the grey wáter streak aiming between patches of smooth gold polish on the right and left to two well spaced appart bolts. Make a short 5.9 traverse left to a right facing corner with finger to hand size cams. Some cool liebacking gains a large ledge with a spruce tree and bolted belay. (5.9 with 5.8+ run-out ~220 feet)

P2: From the right (south) end of the ledge, work right and up past a couple shallow horizontal cracks with cam placements ~30 feet to the main horizontal crack. Hand traverse this down and right to a solitary large slippery knob. Mantle then continue up and right past a short thin crack/flake. Various belay options above. (5.8 ~100 feet)

P3: Hike up fun 4th class to the top.

Location

Takes a grey water streak to the right of R.C.A. and Chvchichaschtli on the west face of Daff Dome.

Protection

Light single rack of cams to 3", set of small stoppers, set metolious TCU's smallest to orange/red or tricams. Long slings. Three new ASCA protection bolts.

Photos

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