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Routes in West Face
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40 Knobs to Freedom T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Bart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Over Tokyo (Full) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cowabunga T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crotch Rocket Joy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pirates Code, The T 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunny Side Down T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wienie Roast T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Royal Robbins, TM Herbert 1970 |
| Page Views: | 1,587 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Aug 15, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A good route to get scared on. Mostly excellent, run-out climbing on large knobs with some wandering on the upper half.
"The Gray Ghost was my hero... and he still is." Bruce Wayne
P1: From a large ledge with Pines, head up and right on easy slabs 40 feet to a ledge (belay here if you have a rope less than 70m), work up easy climbing with knobs near a small right facing corner and a thin seam crack. Up the giant knobs above to a bolt just below a prominent horizontal dike. Make some steeper moves 5.8 to lower angle 5.6-5.7 run-out terrain with more great knobs. Drift slightly left to gain a series of horizontals and pockets with gear.
Above the line is less obvious, steepens and good knobs get harder to find. Follow the grey wáter streak aiming between patches of smooth gold polish on the right and left to two well spaced appart bolts. Make a short 5.9 traverse left to a right facing corner with finger to hand size cams. Some cool liebacking gains a large ledge with a spruce tree and bolted belay. (5.9 with 5.8+ run-out ~220 feet)
P2: From the right (south) end of the ledge, work right and up past a couple shallow horizontal cracks with cam placements ~30 feet to the main horizontal crack. Hand traverse this down and right to a solitary large slippery knob. Mantle then continue up and right past a short thin crack/flake. Various belay options above. (5.8 ~100 feet)
P3: Hike up fun 4th class to the top.
"The Gray Ghost was my hero... and he still is." Bruce Wayne
P1: From a large ledge with Pines, head up and right on easy slabs 40 feet to a ledge (belay here if you have a rope less than 70m), work up easy climbing with knobs near a small right facing corner and a thin seam crack. Up the giant knobs above to a bolt just below a prominent horizontal dike. Make some steeper moves 5.8 to lower angle 5.6-5.7 run-out terrain with more great knobs. Drift slightly left to gain a series of horizontals and pockets with gear.
Above the line is less obvious, steepens and good knobs get harder to find. Follow the grey wáter streak aiming between patches of smooth gold polish on the right and left to two well spaced appart bolts. Make a short 5.9 traverse left to a right facing corner with finger to hand size cams. Some cool liebacking gains a large ledge with a spruce tree and bolted belay. (5.9 with 5.8+ run-out ~220 feet)
P2: From the right (south) end of the ledge, work right and up past a couple shallow horizontal cracks with cam placements ~30 feet to the main horizontal crack. Hand traverse this down and right to a solitary large slippery knob. Mantle then continue up and right past a short thin crack/flake. Various belay options above. (5.8 ~100 feet)
P3: Hike up fun 4th class to the top.
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