Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Kamps, Tom Higgins July '67
Page Views: 7,994 total · 46/month
Shared By: john durr on Jul 9, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

A classic 4-5 pitch dihedral with all types of crack climbing but mainly liebacking and finger locks. This is another great route on Daff that gets plenty of summer afternoon sun.

Three starting options exist.  The first two options start from left of West Crack on the ledge and end at the same fixed anchor in the corner (tat with a rap ring),

Original start pitch 1: The original 5.9 dihedral that passes a fun roof to an awkward and physical slot then sweet jams - a great pitch, 

Middle start pitch 1: A runout 5.8 face to easy crack pitch with one bolt.

Original start and Middle start pitch 2: From the fixed anchor at the end of the first pitch you should continue the second pitch left past easy jamming with lots of knob footholds until a 5.8 traverse at a big hand hold / pod in the crack allows a crack switch left about 5 feet, this is exciting for the second. Continue liebacking and jamming until a moderate traverse is possible left to at huge ledge / low angle recess about 70' feet. 

Original start and Middle start pitch 3: Jams and layback up a wonderful corner to belay at a small stance, easy 5.9 with #3 camalot belay about 70'. 

Pitch 4 up to a large loose flake then undercling the quick 5.10- crux (small offset stoppers or tiny cams) to more great liebacking.  Belay at the top of the dihedral to watch your partner or continue to the top with easy safe climbing.

Left start: 5.7 left facing dihedral with steep juggy face 5.7R face to enter it.   With this option, it is best to start low and left with an easy slab approach about where the climber's trail reaches the rock.. With this option you will want to make an interesting face traverse left at the end of the easy left facing dihedral to gain some large blocks and gear belay on the nice ledge just above.  From here, the next pitch clmbs up to the crack about 15' to joint the second pitch of the other two starting options at an undercling / lieback up and left.  

Another great pitch 2 option from either start option's pitch 1 belay point - skips the left traverse to the large ledge at 70' out and continues up corner that becomes narrow with great finger jamming / liebacking also 5.9.  Setup a gear belay for THIS second pitch option on the narrow corner where the angle eases a little at a pretty decent stance about 20' below the large loose flake and climb's crux undercling at about 110'.  From here the next pitch will continue up the corner to the large loose flake and the routes 5.10a undercling crux. Lieback to the top.

Location

On the far northwest side of the dome, start near a tree on the ledge 20 feet north of West Crack for the original start or 20 feet further north for the 5.7 start. 

Descend by 1 x 60 meter single rope rappel from chains near the only tree on the northeast side of the dome.  There is another rap anchor about 30' below on the slab that is a little dicy to down climb to. After the rap, recommend walking northwest along the dome to the notch between domes and then down the slab to the packs.  Should take about 15 minutes.

Protection

Plenty of stoppers, offsets are especially useful. Cams from small through #3 camelot useful. Crux can be protected with a black totem or equivalent size. 3-4 fixed pins on original 5.9 crack pitch and add a few long slings if you do this pitch. No fixed anchors at belays except the original 5.9 crack first pitch.

Photos