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Routes in West Face

Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Kamps, Tom Higgins July '67
Page Views: 6,028 total · 44/month
Shared By: john durr on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A classic 4-5 pitch dihedral with all types of crack climbing but mainly liebacking and finger locks. This is another great route on Daff that gets plenty of summer afternoon sun.

Three starting options exist; the original 5.9 dihedral that passes a fun roof to an awkward and physical slot then sweet jams - a great pitch, what appears to be a runout 5.9 face to easy crack pitch with one bolt or a 5.7 crack with steep face to enter it. The first two options lead to the same fixed anchor and the third option is a gear belay.

From the fixed anchor at the end of the first pitch you should continue the second pitch left past easy jamming with lots of knob footholds until a 5.8 traverse at a big hand hold / pod in the crack allows a crack switch left about 5 feet, this is exciting for the second. Alternatively you can make a 20 foot rappel to the top of the 5.7 crack or down climb to it 5.7. The second pitch ends at huge ledge. The optional 5.7 crack first pitch start avoids the exciting traverse for your partner on the second pitch.

The third pitch jams and laybacks up a wonderful corner to belay at a small stance, easy 5.9 with #3 camelot belay.

Fourth pitch runs up to a large loose flake then underclings the quick 5.10- crux (small stoppers or tiny cams) to more good jamming. Belay at the top of the dihedral to watch your partner or continue to the top with easy safe climbing.

Location

On the far northwest side of the dome, start near a tree on the ledge 20 feet north of West Crack for the original start or 20 feet further north for the 5.7 start. Descent by 1 x 60 meter single rope rappel from chains near the only tree on the northeast side of the dome then walk northwest through the notch.

Protection

Plenty of stoppers especially medium through #3 camelot. 3-4 fixed pins on original 5.9 crack pitch and add a few long slings if you do this pitch. No fixed anchors at belays except the original 5.9 crack first pitch.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10a
This was a "sleeper surprise" route for us. Hiked in to climb West Crack and it was loaded with people so we looked around and decided to get on this one. I'm glad we did. Maybe I enjoy laybacking more than the average person but I found this route to be more enjoyable than West Crack. We took the direct 5.7 start, which was fun, and we had a great afternoon outing on this route.
The 5.10a crux took me a couple shots to get it right. I tried laybacking and shoulder jamming which failed but once I did a palms-down finger jam up into the crack and trusted my feet, it all went smooth. Fun stuff! Oct 1, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
The standard P1 start is burly! Otherwise a fun climb. I won't rush back to do it, but glad I did it. Jul 15, 2010
Sasquach Broom
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Sasquach Broom   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I went up the crack to the right on pitch 2 which was really fun. (and possibly a bit steeper?) I haven't done it both ways but this way looked like more fun. Also it leads to a decent little ledge to belay on. Aug 16, 2010
generationfourth
Irvine, CA
 
generationfourth   Irvine, CA
 
This is a fun one. I got spanked on the first pitch 5.8 OW. Groaned and made all kinds of noises up. Misjudged how far we had gone and went through the crux without realizing it was going to be right there. From what I remember I equalized 0 and 00 TCU's at the crux section. Jun 7, 2012
rpc
Portland, OR
 
rpc   Portland, OR
 
The original (5.9) start feels like the crux. Pretty good route. Aug 24, 2015
Joe Crawford
June Lake, California
  5.10a
Joe Crawford   June Lake, California
  5.10a
Did this via the face (middle) start, it is definitely not 5.9, way easier i felt it was 5.7. The bit to the first bolt was 5.6 and heady for the grade, but never insecure. The rest of the route felt 5.8ish with one distinct 10a crux. Great route. Jun 8, 2016
Max Rausch
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Max Rausch   Portland, OR
  5.10a
A few notes.

-I don't recommend the far left start (steep 5.7R). Heady with shitty gear + ground fall potential for 40ft. The 5.8R section had a very loose hold that was about to go. Ended up tension traversing in from the right. The Supertopo shows a piton...which is gone.

- The loose '5.6 blocks' of P2 are indeed very large and very loose. Proceed with caution.

-P3 was really really fun. Has a fixed DMM offset nut near the anchor.

-P4. I'm not sure if I did it wrong. But I found the crux move to be SOLID 5.10.

-If it's sunny and warm out, bring the jacket! It must have been 80 out, but the route gets nearly all day shade and with wind chill, we were freezing. Jun 15, 2018

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