Avg: 3 from 101 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bob Kamps, Tom Higgins July '67|
|Page Views:||7,171 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||john durr on Jul 9, 2007 with 2 Suggestions|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Three starting options exist; the original 5.9 dihedral that passes a fun roof to an awkward and physical slot then sweet jams - a great pitch, what appears to be a runout 5.9 face to easy crack pitch with one bolt or a 5.7 crack with steep face to enter it. The first two options lead to the same fixed anchor (tat with a rap ring) and the third option is a gear belay on a decent ledge.
From the fixed anchor at the end of the first pitch you should continue the second pitch left past easy jamming with lots of knob footholds until a 5.8 traverse at a big hand hold / pod in the crack allows a crack switch left about 5 feet, this is exciting for the second. Alternatively you can make a 20 foot rappel to the top of the 5.7 crack or down climb to it 5.7. The second pitch ends at huge ledge. The optional 5.7 crack first pitch start avoids the exciting traverse for your partner on the second pitch.
The third pitch jams and laybacks up a wonderful corner to belay at a small stance, easy 5.9 with #3 camalot belay.
Fourth pitch runs up to a large loose flake then underclings the quick 5.10- crux (small offset stoppers or tiny cams) to more good jamming. Belay at the top of the dihedral to watch your partner or continue to the top with easy safe climbing.